Demerol

It seems that a new cosmetic procedure comes along almost every day, but going for that first treatment is always a little daunting, especially when it's a procedure so advanced that you don't know a soul who has done it. That's why we've taken the plunge for you. Our brave beauty guinea pigs tried it all, and aren't afraid to tell it like it is. Here are their in-depth reports on the fears, the pain and, most important, the results.

* face

"My acne scars have ravaged my self-confidence as much as they have my face."--Amy, 40+

The treatment Restylane injections to smooth out acne scars Restylane--a clear gel containing hyaluronic acid, which works to plump up skin--has recently been approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to fill wrinkles and make skin smoother. But it's also being injected into acne scars by dermatologists and plastic surgeons nationwide to temporarily fill in the depressions the scars have made. (Results last approximately four to six months.) Our tester Amy visited Harvard-trained celebrity dermatologist Karyn Grossman, M.D., who's well-known for her work in cosmetic dermatology in both Los Angeles and New York City.

Pain factor "I felt a sharp sting when the needle went in, and the deeper injections caused a toothachelike pain. Individually, the injections were tolerable, but the cumulative effect left my face burning," says Amy. Pain rating: about 5 (on a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the highest) for the larger scars, which required several injections each; closer to 3 for the smaller ones

Post-treatment Redness and a stinging sensation ("similar to a mild sunburn")--typical side effects of the treatment--lasted into the next day. And three of the areas injected developed slightly raised welts that were soothed by warm compresses. Three days post-treatment, the redness and stinging were gone; the swelling went down more gradually over the next week.

The cost Approximately $675 for treatment with one syringe. (Cost is based on the number of syringes needed; most patients need one or two syringes.) Our tester used one syringe.

The bottom line "The improvement in the scars that were injected was immediate, and the skin in those areas looked smooth," says Amy.

"My crow's-feet were becoming more pronounced; I wanted something that would make the skin around my eyes smoother."--LaVonne, 40+

The treatment Thermage (aka ThermaCool) for wrinkles This procedure, called the "lunch-break face-lift" by its proponents, is relatively new for the treatment of wrinkles. Unlike lasers, Thermage uses radio-frequency energy to penetrate through the epidermis into the dermis, heating the skin-firming collagen and, in the process, tightening it. The theory: The deep heating of the collagen kicks in a natural biological repair process that causes gradual collagen tightening and stimulates the growth of new collagen to create a more youthful appearance. As the collagen forms, the top layer of skin looks plumper, smoother and less wrinkled. While encouraging new collagen to grow over the course of several months, Thermage also causes immediate tightening from slight swelling in surface tissue. The results have been shown to last 18 months or longer. Our tester LaVonne visited Martin Alpert, M.D., in private practice in Santa Monica, Calif.

Pain factor Alpert recommended taking a couple of acetaminophen tablets an hour before the treatment and using a topical painkiller in the form of an anesthetic cream in conjunction with an injection of the prescription painkiller Demerol. Even with that combination, LaVonne rates the pain of the procedure about 5. "It felt like I was being touched with a warm iron," she says. An area of skin about an inch square was heated with a wand that emits radio waves. The heat builds in intensity for a few seconds as each square inch is treated. The areas over bony structures, such as the temple, are more sensitive than those with some padding.

Post-treatment "There were no problems. My skin had a slight warmth, like a very mild sunburn, for about 24 hours," LaVonne explains. (Blistering can occur if a doctor is overzealous and applies too much energy to the skin; this didn't occur with our tester.)

The cost $2,000-$2,500 for a one-time treatment. Visit www.thermage.com for more information.

The bottom line "Results are extremely gradual," says LaVonne. "At two months I'm starting to see some subtle results, but improvement should continue over the course of an entire year."

* hair

"My hair is long, wavy and frizzy. I would spend up to half an hour blowing it out and then flat-ironing it, or I'd have to get a professional blowout."--Jody, 27

The treatment Hair straightening

Professional hair straightening used to take up to eight hours, but now a new process, called the Barbar Permanent Hair Straightening System, reduces that time significantly and takes just three. Our tester Jody visited the Julien Farel Salon in New York City, where Dominic Barbar (who was visiting from Los Angeles) worked on her hair. During the procedure, the stylist washed Jody's hair, applied a protein spray and protective cream, put a straightening solution on, rinsed it and then blew out the strands. (The solution breaks down the chemical bonds in the hair that cause it to be curly, effectively resetting the hair's memory of what shape it should take.) Once the hair was dry, the stylist flat-ironed each section of hair, sealing in the straightening solution. (Note: Hair must be healthy; if in doubt, book a consultation with the stylist first.) The treatment lasts about six months.

Pain factor "There was no pain and there was nothing unpleasant about the treatment," Jody notes.

Post-treatment "I wasn't allowed to wash my hair for 48 hours afterward, but it was a small price to pay for sleek, frizz-free hair," Jody explains.

The cost $300-$500, depending on hair length and thickness, plus $40 for the specially formulated hair-care products. For locations of salons that offer the Barbar treatment, go to barbarartist.com.

The bottom line "Professional hair straightening turned out even better than I could ever have imagined," says Jody. "I can let my long hair air-dry and it actually looks like I've had an expensive blowout. The best part is that I can sleep a lot later in the morning, since it doesn't take me nearly as much time to get ready now."

"I was tired of waiting for my shoulder-length hair to grow."--Violet, 24

The treatment Hair extensions

To put in extensions, the stylist takes sections of natural human hair, perfectly matched to your color, and bonds them to your hair shafts. (Our tester Violet visited Aurora at Enve Salon in New York City for Great Lengths hair extensions.) The procedure--which takes eight hours to complete for a full head of hair--lasts about three to four months. That's when you go back to the salon for maintenance and/or removal, which takes two to three hours. During the removal process, the stylist uses an oil-and-lanolin mixture to dissolve the bond and gently remove the extensions.

Pain factor There's no pain from the procedure, just the boredom of sitting still for hours. "When it was done, there was a heavy feeling on my head until I got used to carrying around so much extra hair," Violet explains.

Post-treatment "A few of the extensions came out while I was brushing my hair," Violet says. "You have to treat them very gently. Also, you can't use hair products that contain oil or alcohol; they'll break down the bond and cause the extensions to fall out." Since it's almost impossible to find products without those ingredients, it's best to buy the ones made especially for extensions, which will add $30 to the cost. It's also worth noting that when the extensions were removed, our tester's hair had suffered no damage.

The cost $400-$2,500, depending on how many extensions are added (Violet had 300 extensions put in, which costs about $2,000). For additional information, go to www.great lengths.net.

The bottom line "Extensions are perfect for anyone in need of a major hair makeover or who has thinning hair. The results were immediate and dramatic--everyone noticed that I'd had it done!" says Violet.

* body

"For the last three years I've been working hard to lose weight. I've gone from a size 22 to a size 14, and even though I'm watching my diet and working out, the cellulite doesn't seem to be going away."--Kelly, 24

The treatment Endermologie for cellulite

Endermologie is a French body treatment, during which a technician (not a doctor) rolls a vacuumlike machine over the body's trouble spots. (You wear a nylon/spandex bodysuit.) The theory: It's a heavy-duty massage that's supposed to break up fat cells and temporarily flush them out of the body (you drink 2-3 liters of water a day to help flush the system). Our tester Kelly went to the Cellulite Endermologie Center in New York City--and also talked to a nutritionist there who gave her diet and exercise suggestions (the key to long-lasting results).

Pain factor "The machine is adjustable, so as long you speak up and ask the technician to turn down the level of suction/massage, there is no discomfort," says Kelly.

Post-treatment "I had no negative side effects, and in fact I found the massage treatment very relaxing and energizing," Kelly explains.

The cost $100 per treatment; $1,200 for a package of 14 treatments (the number recommended, with a minimum of two sessions per week). After the initial course of treatments, experts recommend one session every six weeks to maintain smoothness. For more information, go to cellulite-endermologie-center.com.

The bottom line "I didn't see immediate results, but after nine sessions, my cellulite was noticeably reduced," says Kelly. "Having the treatments also motivated me to focus more on my diet and exercise, and I've lost 10 pounds since starting."

"I gained around 35 pounds when I was in high school, and in the process, I developed stretch marks on my arms, breasts, hips and thighs. The ones on my hips are the worst."--Maureen, 29

The treatment Coolbeam laser for stretch marks

Stretch marks have always been difficult to get rid of, with whiter, older stretch marks being harder to erase than newer, reddish ones. The Coolbeam laser has been touted by doctors nationwide as the treatment of choice for this frustrating skin problem. Simon Ourian, M.D., an aesthetic laser surgeon based in Beverly Hills, Calif., exposed one area of our tester Maureen's skin at a time to the laser. To minimize discomfort, his nurse held a tube that blew extremely cold air onto the area to cool the skin. The theory: The laser lightly agitates the underlying skin cells so they must be repaired. As a result, new collagen forms. The melanocytes (which are responsible for skin pigmentation) are activated, so the paler areas of the stretch-marked skin are repigmented.

Pain factor From 5, for her breasts and thighs, to 8 on her arms and hips, where the stretch marks were deeper, requiring the doctor to spend more time with the laser. "It felt like a strong, continual stinging while he was working with the laser. I clenched my fists and tried to breathe deeply," Maureen says. "Afterward, the pain felt similar to a severe sunburn, but two extra-strength Tylenol took away most of it."

Post-treatment "My skin was very red and raw for about 10 days [common side effects]. The doctor recommended applying Aquaphor ointment [available at drugstores] three to four times a day to help the skin heal," says Maureen. "The Aquaphor made my clothes stick to me and didn't wash out, so I would only recommend wearing clothes you don't care much about!" Note: Anyone who is taking Accutane or has stopped taking it less than six months ago should not have Coolbeam laser treatment because Accutane thins the skin, which prolongs healing.

The cost $7,000 for a full-body course of three to five treatments or for a single area (e.g., abdomen); $2,500 for three to five sessions. Ask your dermatologist for more information.

The bottom line "After just two treatments, obvious marks on my hips have started to fade and aren't as bright-white as they used to be," explains Maureen. "I'm excited to see what happens after a couple more treatments."

RELATED ARTICLE: five fast fixes

from $6-$65

These inexpensive products can be used in the privacy of your own bathroom--no doctor required.

Cellulite-reduction cream

We tested Shiseido Body Creator ($50; 800-7-BEAUTY)

The promise The cream contains a fragrance that helps speed up the breakdown of fat, plus caffeine to tighten skin, according to manufacturer studies.

Results Skin looked immediately smoother and felt tighter.

Lip plumper

We tested N.V. Perricone, M.D. Cosmeceuticals' Alpha Lipoic Acid Lip Plumper with NTP Complex and DMAE ($33; clinicalcreations.com)

The promise An alternative to collagen injections

Results The improvement is gradual, but the area above the lip line looked fuller immediately after application.

Home microdermabrasion kit

We tested Youthful Essence by Susan Lucci Personal Microdermabrasion System ($40; youthfulessence.com)

The promise Diminish fine lines and equalize skin tone

Results Wrinkles didn't vanish, but skin did look smoother and healthier after two weeks.

Shave-minimizing lotion

We tested Jergens Naturally Smooth Shave Minimizing Moisturizer lotion ($6)

The promise Leg hair will get finer and require less-frequent shaving after twice-a-day use.

Results After four weeks of use, we needed to shave less often. And skin was silky-smooth after regular application.

Line-smoothing serum

We tested Line Tox from Clinical Solutions by Therapy Systems ($65; therapysystemsinc.com)

The promise It contains 10 percent argireline, an anti-aging amino-acid compound said to relax the muscles under the skin after 30 days of twice-daily use.

Results Forehead looked smoother and lines were slightly diminished as long as the cream was applied.

Sally Wadyka is a freelance writer based in Jackson Hole, Wyo.

Photography by Tracy Bayne

COPYRIGHT 2004 Weider Publications
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