Dioxybenzone

Skin is probably the first thing we notice about other people. Unfortunately, skin often becomes a measuring device we use for sizing others up, by the complexion of their skin, by its pallor, or by its appearance.

A woman with a peaches-and-cream skin complexion is thought to be beautiful while a man with a rugged look is often considered handsome. We can frequently judge the age of a person by looking at their skin. If we take care of ourselves, it shows in a healthy, robust skin. If we tend to get too much sun, or neglect ourselves by not eating properly, not drinking enough water, smoking, or not getting enough rest, that shows in our skin, as well, and makes us look sickly or older.

Facts about skin, our largest organ

Our skin is the largest organ of our body, covering an area of about 20 square feet in an adult. Skin acts as a barrier that keeps our organs protected from the environment, serves as the first line of defense in immune resistance, regulates the temperature of the body through the circulation of blood and by retention and release of moisture, and aids the kidneys in the function of elimination. The skin is also a sensory organ with numerous nerve endings and contains the appendages of hair, nails, and glands.

The structure of the skin consists of two primary layers, the epidermis and the inner layer, the dermis or corium. The epidermis is made up of various sublayers of cells and is penetrated by numerous sensory nerve endings, but no blood or lymphatic vessels. The deepest layer of skin can be up to many cells thick. In this layer, the cells multiply and, then, as they migrate toward the surface, they alter until they, finally, die and are shed. The outermost layer, the stratum corneum, is composed of a number of layers of dead cells permeated with a horny protein called keratin.

Skin color is affected by three pigment factors in the epidermis. Melanin is the dark brown pigment. Melanoid is the allied dissolved substance. The orange pigment, carotene, is found in dead epidermal cells and the deeper fat layer underlying the skin. The changes in skin color vary with the amount of pigment, especially melanin, and is caused by the blocking effects of pigment and outer epidermal layers, as well as the reflection of blood under the skin.

Blemishes, bumps, and other skin conditions

There are many diseases and conditions associated with the skin, some temporary and curable, like rashes from contact with poison oak or allergic reactions, some not so easily treated and incurable, like psoriasis, with varying degrees of severity. Much of the condition of the skin and many diseases, its color, the number of moles and pigment discolorations, are determined by genetics, just like the color of hair and eyes.

Although there are certain skin factors we can't change, there are a number of things we can do to protect and improve our skin. The number-one factor in the appearance and aging of skin, and in the cause of skin diseases, is exposure to the sun. The lighter the skin, hair, and eye color one has, the greater the risk of skin cancer.

Dry skin. Use moisturizers on your skin. Summer and soap can be very drying. Apply a moisturizer to your skin while it is still damp, immediately after bathing. Use soap sparingly and mostly under the arms, on the feet, and in the genital areas. A cleansing gel will get you clean and has a less drying effect.

Also beneficial to the skin is using clay as an overall mud pack for your body. The clay helps remove toxins, makes it smoother, and tightens the skin.

Psoriasis. Conditions such as psoriasis can be relieved by soaking in a warm bath with Dead Sea salts. There is nothing more wonderfully relaxing than a 15-20 minute soak and then wrapping up in a warm robe and lying down for a 30-45 minute rest.

Getting into the habit of thinking about your skin as your first defense against infectious diseases and protection for your internal organs should motivate you to want to take better care of it.

Skin cancer is dead serious

Melanoma is the deadliest form of skin cancer. It is characterized by sudden uncontrolled growth of pigment-producing tanning cells, but may also develop near moles. If detected while in the early stages, melanoma can usually be treated successfully. In the later stages, malignant melanoma spreads to other organs and there is a higher mortality rate. The American Academy of Dermatology projects that over 1 million Americans will develop skin cancer in 1998. Of those, 9,200 people will die of skin cancer, 7,300 from melanoma alone.

According to a report from the American Academy of Dermatology, a study conducted in 1997 shows that Americans have a 1 in 82 risk for developing melanoma which has increased from a risk of one in 250 in 1980. Those at greater risk are individuals with fair complexions who burn or blister easily; have blonde or red hair; have blue, green, or grey eyes; had excessive sun exposure sometime during either their childhood or teen years before reaching 20; have a family history of melanoma; or have more than 100 moles, or 50 moles if you are younger than 20. Additionally, those who live in states with more intense sunlight have a greater risk.

A study conducted by Ercem Atillasoy, M.D., of the Wistar Institute and the Department of Dermatology at Thomas Jefferson University, established a direct link between ultraviolet light (UVB) and the development of melanoma. He found that human malignant melanoma can be brought on without any pre-existing sun exposure. He concluded that his research "provides evidence that UVB, as found in sunlight, is related to the evolution of malignant melanoma." Further information on this study is available in the May 1998 issue of the American Journal of Pathology.

The American Academy of Dermatology has also issued a statement regarding the public confusion over a recent report from Marianne Berwick, Ph.D., of Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center, claiming that sunscreens were ineffective against melanoma. Four of the five studies she cited in her report occurred before 1980. Since then, broad-spectrum SPF (sun protection factor) 15 and higher sunscreens have become available and there is adequate documentation that sunscreen products do provide protection.

Self-examination is the best way to protect yourself from the more serious consequences of skin cancer. Get to know your body and keep an eye on any moles. Watch for sudden changes in any skin pigments such as: 1) one half being unlike the other half; 2) irregular, scalloped, or poorly defined border; 3) the color varies in shades of tan and brown, black, or even red, white, or blue; and/or 4) the diameter is larger than a pencil eraser.

The finest protection under the sun

There are several things you can do to protect yourself from the sun.

1) Since the sun's rays are strongest between 10 am and 4 pm, avoid being in the sun during those hours.

2) Generously apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection with SPF of at least 15 to 20, and reapply every two hours while outdoors.

3) Wear clothes that offer protection, such as tightly woven fabrics and dark colors.

4) Wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses with UV protective lenses.

5) Stay in the shade and avoid reflective surfaces that can reflect as much as 85 percent of the sun's damaging rays.

6) Most importantly, keep your children protected from the sun. As the adult, they are counting on you to keep them from harm's way. It only takes one or two blistering burns before they reach the age of 20 to result in skin cancer in subsequent years.

Sunsereens. When looking for a sunscreen, check the ingredients. There are a number of them with different natural formulations, but avoid those associated with any plants to which you may already be allergic. Sunscreens labeled as "waterproof" or "water-resistant" may cause irritations to people with sensitive skin. PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid) and PABA esters (padimate O, padimate A, glyceryl PABA) sometimes cause allergic reactions, as well.

Other ingredients include cinnamates (octyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, cinoxate) and benzophenones (oxybenzone, dioxybenzone, sulisobenzone).

Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide blocks are useful alternatives for people who develop allergies to sunscreening chemicals. Many natural products are formulated without these sunscreening chemicals.

Improving your skin's appearance and underlying health

As mentioned earlier, the outermost layer consists of dead skin cells. Because of the buildup of these cells, the skin can look dull, age, and lose its elasticity. By using skin scrubs, natural sponges, or loofahs, or dry brushing to remove the dead cells and reveal fresh cells, you can improve the appearance of your skin.

Dry brushing. Dry brushing increases blood circulation to the skin. It involves using a natural bristle brush to brush the skin. You start with the feet and move up the legs, changing to a circular motion on the buttocks, belly, and chest, then, from the fingertips, across the arms and shoulders and down the back. Always brush in the direction of the heart. Since this process removes dead cells, it is best done just before showering.

Because the procedure is stimulating, it should be used as a morning routine, not before bedtime. The use of products with alpha-and beta-hydroxy (and glycolic) acids can also help to exfoliate the skin and are proven to improve damage to the skin caused by the sun. These products help to lighten dark spots caused by aging and can aid in firming wrinkles.

REFERENCES

American Academy of Dermatology, Public Information and News Releases On-line, http://www.aad.org/P Frameset.html.

Cates, Nancy Dodd. "Skin! How to Protect It," Better Nutrition, 59(7):64-67, July 1997.

Collier's Encyclopedia CD-ROM, 1998. Collier Newfield Inc. Oakhurst, Calif.: Sierra On-Line, Inc., 1997.

RELATED ARTICLE: Essential oils for healthier skin

The following oils are thought to have properties that help the condition of the skin:

Carrier Oils

Almond -- relieves itching, irritation, and inflammation

Apricot kernel -- helpful for dehydrated, delicate, mature, or sensitive skin

Borage -- stimulates cell activity for regeneration and rejuvenation of the skin

Camellia -- helpful in preventing thickening of skin in scar tissue

Flaxseed -- high in vitamin E, stimulates cell regeneration, prevents scarring, stretch marks

Grapeseed -- tightens and tones the skin

Hazelnut -- tones and tightens, strengthens capillaries, assists in cell regeneration

Jojoba -- similar to the skin's own oils, good for dry and matured skin and inflammation

Olive -- has medicinal properties, soothing and healing

Rose Hip Seed -- helps the skin to heal and regenerate, prevents thickening of scar tissue, helpful in healing burns, scars, stretch marks

Sesame Seed -- helpful for eczema, psoriasis, and mature skin

Wheat Germ -- high in vitamins A, B, and E, good for dry and cracked skin, mature complexions, eczema, psoriasis, scars, stretch marks

Treating Broken Capillaries -- chamomile, cypress, peppermint

Cellulitis -- basil, birch, cedarwood, clary sage, coriander, cypress, fennel, geranium, grapefruit, juniper, lemon, patchouli, rosemary, thyme

Reduce Inflammation -- birch, bitter orange, camphor, chamomile, clary sage, fennel, frankincense, geranium, jasmine, marigold, myrrh, patchouli, peppermint, rose, sandalwood, sweet orange, tea tree, violet

Dull and Congested Skin -- angelica, birch, fennel, geranium, grapefruit, mandarin, spearmint, rosemary, rosewood

Dry Skin -- chamomile, frankincense, jasmine, lavender, rose, rosewood, sandalwood, violet

Wrinkles -- carrot seed, clary sage, fennel, frankincense, lavender, mandarin, myrrh, neroli, palmarosa, patchouli, rose, rosewood, sandalwood, spikenard, ylang-ylang

Nancy Dodd Cates is a former managing editor of Elan magazine, where she fine-tuned her lifelong interests of integrating vitamin supplements, natural herbs, and natural products into skin care and health. She currently lives in Bakersfield, Calif.

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