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Panthenol

Panthenol is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Therefore it is also called provitamin B5. In organisms it is quickly oxidized to pantothenate. Its chemical formula is C9H19NO4 or HO-CH2-C(CH3)2-CH(OH)-CONH-CH2CH2CH2-OH. It comes as a white or creamy white crystalline powder with slight characteristic odor. It is well-soluble in water, alcohol and propylene glycol, soluble in ether and chloroform, and slightly soluble in glycerin. more...

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Its CAS number is 81-13-0 and its SMILES structure is =CC(C)(CO)C(C(=O)NCCCO)O.

Panthenol comes in two enantiomers, D and L. Only D-panthenol (dexpanthenol) is biologically active, however both forms have moisturizing properties. For cosmetic use, panthenol comes either in D form, or as a racemic mixture of D and L (DL-panthenol).

In cosmetics, panthenol is a humectant, emollient and moisturizer. It binds to hair follicles readily. It is a frequent component of shampoos and hair conditioners. It coats the hair and seals its surface, lubricating them and making them appear shiny.

In skin cells, panthenol is absorbed and metabolized to pantothenic acid; it incites new cell growth, binds water, and acts as a moisturizer. In hair, it serves only as a moisturizing coating and does not undergo modification.

In shampoos and conditioners, panthenol is usually present in concentrations of 0.1-1%. In ointments it is contained in concentrations of up to 2-5% and is used for treatment of sunburns, burns and minor skin disorders. In such mixtures it is sometimes used together with allantoin.

Other names for panthenol are:

  • Butanamide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, (R)-
  • Butyramide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, D-(+)-
  • Butanamide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, (2R)-
  • D-Panthenol
  • Dexpanthenol (DCIR)
  • Dexpanthenolum
  • Panthenol
  • Propanolamine, N-pantoyl-
  • d-Pantothenyl alcohol

See also:

  • Sci-toys: ingredients: panthenol
  • Household Products Database

Read more at Wikipedia.org


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Active beauty essentials: what you need to look great after working up a sweat, indoors or out
From Shape, 2/1/05 by Heidi Schiller

You may already have the right gear for your favorite sport, but do you have the right beauty essentials to keep you looking great too? "Probably not," says Gretchen Monahan, owner of the Grettacole Salon and Spas in the Boston area. "I see a lot of clients with exercise-related beauty problems who haven't taken the time to stock their gym bag or medicine cabinet with the right products. You have to choose your beauty regimen in the same way you would your workout clothes." So whether you're a skier or a yogini, here are the essentials you need to prevent or relieve sport-induced skin and hair problems.

* If you're a ... skier or snowboarder

Focus on: preventing chapped skin

Exercise essentials There's no doubt that cold weather and harsh winds can rob the skin of essential moisture (see Beauty Rx, page 84), which is why daily hydration is so important. "Extremely dry, irritated skin can crop up quite fast, so keep a heavy-duty moisturizing cream on hand to handle those problematic areas whenever necessary," says Tennessee Callie, R.N., a skin practitioner at New York City's Skinklinic dermatology center. Best bet: B. Kamins Chemist Maple Treatment Cream SPF 15 ($95; bkamins.com), a superhydrating cream made from the sap of Canadian maple trees.

The sun's ultraviolet (UV) radiation is another winter woe. "Skiers and snow-boarders don't realize how strong the sun is at high altitudes," says cosmetic dermatologist Adam Bodian, M.D., of Bodian Dermatology and Medical Day Spa in Great Neck, N.Y. "Sun also reflects off the snow, causing almost as much damage as if you were facing it head-on." A broad-spectrum sunscreen (one that protects against UVA and UVB rays) with SPF 30 or higher is a must; it can also protect against windburn. (We like Kiehl's All-Sport "Non-Freeze" Face Protector SPF 30, $15.50; kiehls.com; and MD Skincare Water Resistant Sunscreen SPF 30, $30; mdskincare.com.) And, since lips burn easily, wear a lip balm with an SPF of 30. Try Natural Ice Sport Medicated Lip Protectant SPF 30 ($1.49; drugstore.com).

* If you're a ... swimmer

Focus on: keeping hair and skin hydrated

Exercise essentials Frequent exposure to salt water or chlorine can strip skin of its natural moisture and leave strands dry and brittle. Chlorinated water also can give light-colored hair an unsightly green hue.

For skin: Shower, then massage in a small amount of Vaseline Petroleum Jelly ($4) or Aquaphor Healing Ointment ($6; both at drugstores) from the neck down on wet skin. Finish by patting dry with a towel. London-based Noella Gabriel, director of Treatment and Product Development for the spa skin-care line Elemis, also suggests rehydrating your skin with alcohol-free mists. Try Elemis Cooling Mint Mist with peppermint essential oil ($31; timetospa.com), Aloette Aloepure Nutri-Hydrating Mist with aloe vera ($18.75; aloettecosmetics.com) or Cellex-C Betaplex Fresh Complexion Mist with glycerin and exfoliating hydroxy acids ($29; cellex-c.com).

For hair: Nathaniel Hawkins, a New York City hairstylist, recommends wearing a silicone swim cap over hair that's been covered with a water-repelling barrier like Alberto VO5 Hot Oil Pre-Shampoo Intensive Treatment ($3.49; at drugstores). Or try Paul Labrecque Silk Protein leave-in conditioning spray ($18; paullabrecque.com). "The oil or wax acts as an extra buffer to protect hair," he adds.

If you don't wear a cap when you swim, you'll need to immediately shower the chlorine or salt water out of your hair and suds up with a clarifying shampoo to help remove the buildup. Try Clairol Herbal Essences Clarifying Shampoo ($3.69; at drugstores) or Frederic Fekkai Apple Cider Clarifying Shampoo ($18.50; sephora.com). A regular deep conditioning treatment can also help rehydrate dry hair. We like Bumble and bumble Deeep Treatment with hydrolyzed silk protein and panthenol ($23; bumbleandbumble.com for salon locations).

* If you're a ... runner

Focus on: keeping feet healthy and preventing chafing

Exercise essentials Logging a lot of miles can give your feet a beating, but daily care will keep them in fine form: Stash a tube of exfoliating moisturizer (one with skin-sloughing alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids) in your locker or gym bag and massage sore feet to help exfoliate dry skin. Editor's picks: Babor Body Thermal Line Anti-Callous Cream with mineral oil and algae ($16; babor.com) and Propoline Pedi Care Cream with olive oil and alpha-hydroxy acids ($12; beautyhabit.com). Monthly professional pedicures are also recommended: "A lot of our clients are Boston Marathoners who come to us for a proper pedicure," Monahan says. "That means we buff but don't cut their calluses, which build up as a protective layer on areas where there is prolonged pressure."

Any runner who has experienced runner's rash or runner's nipple, which occurs where skin rubs against fabric over long distances, never wants to repeat the misery. To prevent it, wear clothing made of moisture-wicking fabric like Dri-Fit or CoolMax. "A layer of Vaseline or zinc oxide paste (available at drugstores) will also provide a barrier between your clothes and sensitive spots like nipples and underarms," Bodian explains. Also try Indigo Wild's Zip's Nip Stick ($9.50; zipsnaturalsport.com) with beeswax and shea butter. An antiperspirant with moisturizing ingredients, such as Secret Platinum & Olay Conditioners ($2.79; at drugstores), can help to keep your underarms dry--and therefore less likely to chafe.

* If you're a ... yogini

Focus on: avoiding accumulation of acne-causing bacteria

Exercise essentials "Yoga tends to be a very sweaty activity, with lots of bare feet on dirty floors," Monahan says. "Bring your own mat and always put a clean towel under your face when lying down." The best tried-and-true action to get rid of bacteria after yoga class remains washing your hands well with soap and water and/or showering. "But for the truly concerned person, using an antiseptic cleanser or moisturizer is an alternative," says Bodian, who also recommends applying over-the-counter anti-fungal creams proactively to prevent foot fungus (see "No Matter What Your Sport" on page 76). Try Lever 2000 Moisture Response Antibacterial Bar with the antibacterial ingredient triclosan ($1.79 for two bars; at drugstores).

* If you're a ... biker

Focus on: preventing chafing and a sore seat

Exercise essentials A well-made pair of snug, padded bike shorts and a padded bike seat can help prevent chafing that occurs in the genital area and also minimize sore "sit bones." A thin layer of Vaseline applied to skin before biking can also help alleviate chafing in sensitive areas and keep skin moisturized. Try Spinning Gel Seat ($25) and Spin Body Saddle Soothe ($10; both at spinning.com) for sore "seats."

* If you're a ... weightlifter or rock climber

Focus on: keeping hands/nails from cracking and calluses under control

Exercise essentials Hands that get too dry can become cracked and irritated, which can be painful and even lead to infection, so diligently applying hand cream is a must. "While most women see callus buildup as a bad thing, for athletes it can protect the areas of your hands that you use most," says Brenna Collins, spa director of New York City's Haven spa. "It's the dryness that really wreaks havoc on your skin."

Hand-care best bets: Korres Hand & Nail Cream ($12; sephora.com) and L'Occitane Ice Hand Cream Gel ($15; loccitane.com). And, while paraffin dips aren't easy to toss into a bag or locker, you can do them at home. "A paraffin dip is a perfect way to seal in moisture," says Collins, who recommends doing them whenever you groom your nails. First apply a moisturizer, and then dip hands into an at-home paraffin wax kit like HoMedics ParaSpa Elite Heat Therapy Paraffin Bath ($48; drugstore.com).

RELATED ARTICLE: NO MATTER WHAT YOUR SPORT

These health and beauty woes are nearly universal among active women.

Athlete's foot Never go barefoot in a public locker room. Instead, wear a pair of flip-flops, as fungus thrives in wet areas but can be present (and possibly worse) in carpets. The treatment: Be diligent about washing feet and drying thoroughly--especially in between the toes. Over-the-counter treatments include Lamisil AT Athlete's Foot Cream ($13.25) and Lotrimin AF ($11.91; both at drugstores), but see a doctor if the condition persists.

Greasy hair Increased sweating during and after exercise can cause hair to get oily or dirty because sweat transfers from the scalp to the hair strands. The treatment: Wash hair, or if you're time-crunched, use a cleansing spray like Aveda's Light Elements Reviving Mist ($21; drugstore.com) or KMS Turnstylr Cleansing Spray ($9; kmshaircare.com for salon locations).

Hairline breakouts When you sweat during a workout, hair products can transfer to skin--which is why it's best to avoid wearing styling products during an intense workout. The treatment: Use a cleanser with glycolic acid in problem areas. (Try Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser, $29; murad.com.) And regularly wash baseball caps, sweatbands or anything else you use to pull your hair back from your face.

Sore muscles Smoothing a cooling gel onto tired legs and feet or soaking in a warm blend of soothing herbs will provide instant relief. Try Kneipp Arnica Active Gel ($18; sephora.com) or Ole Henriksen Muscle Comfort Soak ($38; sephora.com) with rosemary, juniper berry, lavender and eucalyptus.

RELATED ARTICLE: A SPORTING INDULGENCE

To pamper your sport-stressed body, try one of these spa treatments designed specifically for athletes.

** The Golf Performance Treatment at Willow Stream-The Spa at the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess in Arizona ($139 for 60 minutes; willowstream.com) uses massage and stretching to increase flexibility and relieve sore upper-body muscles to help improve that all-important swing.

** Vista Clara Ranch Spa Resort in Galisteo, N.M., soothes tired toes with the Hikers Foot Therapy ($50 for 25 minutes; vistaclara.com), which includes reflexology and massage to boost foot circulation and relieve aching arches and ankles.

** At the Moonlight Spa at East West Resort in Big Sky, Mont., the Skier's Rescue Package ($245 for 2 1/2 hours; eastwestbigsky.com) includes a massage to help stretch apres-ski muscles and increase circulation to extremities, a honey foot scrub and reflexology treatment to rejuvenate ski-boot-cramped feet and a facial to soothe cold- and wind-chapped skin.

** Select Spas at Equinox Fitness Clubs in New York City offer Sports Manicures and Pedicures that can be tailored to clients' individual needs ($65 for both; equinoxfitness.com). Aestheticians pay special attention to the needs of athletes like rock climbers and weight lifters, who may want to keep nails short or to maintain their calluses.--Sarah Kahle

RELATED ARTICLE: Shape giveaway

keep post-gym hair fresh ... FOR FREE!

At lunchtime, hitting the gym or going for a run would be a lot quicker--and easier--if you knew you didn't have to fit in a shower afterward. That's why we're giving away 50 Aveda Light Elements Reviving Mists (each a $21 value!). With organic lavender water and red clover, the mist refreshes hair after a workout so you don't have to rewash it. Log on to Shape.com/aveda from Jan. 18 to Feb. 14 for your chance to win. good luck!

Heidi Schiller, a freelance writer based in Short Hills, N.J., has never let being active get in the way of looking good.

COPYRIGHT 2005 Weider Publications
COPYRIGHT 2005 Gale Group

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