Oxybenzone

Of all the skin's archenemies, the sun glows (or glowers) at the top of the list. Unprotected exposure to the sun's ultraviolet radiation damages skin cells and DNA, which can trigger a chain of events that not only ages us years ahead of our time, but can also lead to skin cancer. The end result is skin that is physically unable to do what it's been programmed to do: keep itself healthy and youthful.

Going without sun protection is plain unwise. But a startling new survey conducted by the American Academy of Dermatology found that regular use of sunscreen has decreased sharply--from 54 percent in 1996 to just 31 percent in 2003. To make matters worse, when we do use it, we're being far too stingy; studies show that most of us put on as little as 25 percent of the amount required to reach a product's promised sun protection factor. So why are we getting less serious about sun protection? There's a wide range of myths, mistakes and rationalizations. Read on to see if any of them hit a little too close to home. Your beautiful skin, your health and even your life may depend on it.

Rationale #1:

"Sunscreen causes cancer."

The truth: "That's balderdash," declares Vincent DeLeo, M.D., chairman of dermatology at St. Luke's Roosevelt and Beth Israel Medical Center in New York City. "Of at least 20 large studies done with sunscreens of every type, not one has shown that sunscreens produce cancer."

Indeed, a slew of studies has shown that sunscreen use can prevent the most common forms of skin cancer. But there are limits to its effectiveness. "Sunscreen is only one component of a comprehensive protection program," says Darrell Rigel, M.D., clinical professor of dermatology at New York University School of Medicine.

Rigel suggests reapplying sunscreen every two hours and after swimming or strenuous activity; wearing protective clothing (see "Let It Shine" on page 30); and limiting outdoor activities between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. when the sun's rays are strongest. Doing so will protect you from 80 percent of ultraviolet B exposure, the so-called burning rays, and 70 percent of ultraviolet A exposure, which is responsible for skin aging and plays a critical role in the development of melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer.

Rationale #2:

"I need my vitamin D."

The truth: Vitamin D is a key nutrient for calcium regulation, stronger bones and disease protection, and its production is triggered by the sun's UVB rays. But using sunscreen won't leave you D-deficient. According to lames M. Spencer, M.D., vice chairman of the department of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City, studies confirm that vitamin D levels in sunscreen users are normal.

The explanation is twofold: First, it only takes 10 minutes of sun exposure to manufacture a month's worth of vitamin D, and since no sunscreen completely blocks UV light, it's easy to get the necessary amount simply by taking a short walk at lunchtime with protection. Second, most of us get the recommended daily dose of 200 International Units of vitamin D via diet or supplements. (For example, just one cup of most types of milk contains 100 IU of this nutrient.)

Rationale #3:

"I'm only outside for a few minutes."

The truth: If you add up all the incidental sun exposure the average person receives each week, it totals a whopping 18 hours. That's scary, since it doesn't take more than an afternoon stroll to rack up serious UV exposure. "Incidental damage incurred during 10 minutes of unprotected exposure can cause changes associated with premature skin aging, including fine lines, wrinkles and increased pigmentation," says Nick Lowe, M.D., clinical professor of dermatology at UCLA School of Medicine.

This kind of damage comes from UVA rays, which are constant throughout the day all year long--they even penetrate car windows! To keep skin safe, doctors now recommend applying sunscreen or protective moisturizer with a minimum SPF 30 every morning; both can be worn under makeup. Sunscreens labeled "broad spectrum" are more effective at shielding skin from UVA and UVB rays. The best of the bunch contain Parsol 1789 (a.k.a. avobenzone), a chemical sunscreen, or micronized zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Try Eucerin Extra Protective Moisture Lotion SPF 30 ($10; at drugstores), with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide; Panama Jack Guide & Outfitter SPF 30 ($8; panamajack.com) with micronized titanium dioxide; or Aubrey Organics Titania Full Spectrum Sunblock SPF 25 with titanium dioxide ($8; aubrey-orgonics.com).

Rationale #4:

"I'm allergic to sunscreen."

The truth: In actuality, less than 1 percent of the population is allergic to the active ingredients in chemical sunscreens, with the main culprit being oxybenzone. If you find sunscreens irritating, you're probably reacting to a perfume or a preservative like methylparaben or propylparaben. Switch to non-chemical sunblocks like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. These are rarely irritating because they consist of microscopic mineral particles that sit atop the skin, creating a barrier that deflects UVA and UVB radiation. New micronized titanium oxides are ground so fine that they blend well with the skin. Try The Body Shop Protect It! Sun Lotion for Face SPF 20 ($15.50; thebodyshop.com), Lavera Neutral Sunscreen SPF is ($19.50; saffronrouge.com) or Pevonia Botanica Sunblock Body Shield SPF 15 ($31; pevonia.com).

Rational #5

"The sun helps clear up my acne."

The truth: Ultraviolet light does have an anti-inflammatory effect that can minimize breakouts and some of the redness associated with them; the tan it triggers may also help camouflage the condition. But because the sun thickens the outer layer of skin and stimulates oil production, any improvement is temporary and mild compared to the long-term consequences. "Ultimately, the payback is that much worse as pores become blocked and the sebaceous glands kick into overdrive," says David Bank, M.D., a dermatologist in Mount Kisco, N.Y. A good choice for those prone to breakouts is a noncomedogenic sunscreen like Clarins Oil-Free Sun Care Spray SPF 15 ($25.50; gloss.com) or DDF Sun Gel SPF 30 ($22; sephora.com).

Rationale #6:

"Sunscreens are smelly and messy."

The truth: Today's products have come a long way. For example, Banana Boat Suntanicals SPF 30 ($8; at drugstores) smells like a fragrant body lotion, yet it offers broad-spectrum protection and soothing botanicals like aloe vera and chamomile. And it's simple to touch up oft-missed body parts like the nose ears and cheeks with Coppertone Endless Summer Ultrasheer Sunscreen Stick SPF 30 ($6; at drugstores). Also a breeze to apply is Kiss My Face Sun Spray SPF 30 ($10; kissmyface.com), ideal for hard-to-reach areas. For coverage that stays put yet isn't thick and greasy, turn to sweat- and water-resistant Neutrogena Active Breathable Sunblock SPF ($10 at drugstores), which contains the mineral silica to help absorb oil and keep skin dry.

Rationale #7:

"My makeup contains sunscreen."

The truth: Most foundations are formulated with titanium dioxide, but using base alone may not keep you safe. "Studies have found that almost all protective value is gone in about two hours," says Deborah Sarnoff, M.D., associate clinical professor of dermatology at New York University School of Medicine and author of Instant Beauty: Getting Gorgeous on Your Lunch Break. The simple solution is to apply a sunscreen or SPF moisturizer underneath your foundation. One hitch: The SPF built into moisturizers often doesn't contain UVA filters, so check the labels to see if they have A- and B-blockers like zinc oxide or Parsol 1789. Ones that do have the essentials: Olay Complete UV Defense Moisture Lotion SPF 30 ($13.49; at drugstores) and Shiseido Extra Smooth Sun Protection Cream SPF 36 ($26; sca.shiseido.com).

Rationale #8:

"I never burn, so I'm safe." The truth: Just because you don't feel the blistery effects of UV rays doesn't mean you haven't done damage, says Bank. Indeed, the clearest evidence of harm is a tan, and analyses of tanned skin show the signs of connective-tissue degradation that can lead to lines, wrinkles and skin sagging. The UV rays may also cause changes in DNA components and cell regulators, effects that over time can make your skin cells more susceptible to mutations that may lead to tumors.

Rationale #9:

"It's too late; my skin is fried." The truth: It's never too late to start using sunscreen, and the payoffs for doing so can be big. "Once you stop the UV assault, the skin can start to function at its best," says Bank. In addition to slathering on sunscreen every day, wear sunglasses, wide-brimmed hats and tightly woven, long-sleeved garments. If you follow this advice, you can expect to see an improvement in skin texture and tone in as soon as three months, according to Sarnoff. And really, who needs a better excuse than that to start using sunscreen?

plant-based protection

These five natural ingredients, some of which can be found in products already on the market, are at the forefront of sun-protection research.

SOY According to many published studies (some dating back to 1993), genestein, a plant compound in soybeans, can help protect skin from both UVA- and UVB-induced damage when applied topically. Find soy in Aveeno Positively Radiant Daily Moisturizer with SPF 15 ($14; at drugstores).

CAFFEINE Researchers at Rutgers University in Piscataway, discovered that N.J., caffeine may block the UV-induced genetic changes in skin that can lead to skin cancer. Caffeine-rich coffee is an ingredient in Nature's Gate Sunblock Lotion SPF 15 ($7.95) and 30 ($8.95; 800-327-2012).

GREEN TEA Loaded with the powerful ingredient EGCG, an antioxidant that seems to be able to minimize sun damage, green-tea extract has been found to prevent ultraviolet-related skin inflammation. Try it in Alba Hawaiian Green Tea SPF 30 Sunscreen ($8.95; avalonnaturalproducts.com).

CAROTENOIDS Carrots are loaded with these natural pigments that protect plants against sun damage; lab tests have shown they may provide antioxidant benefits for humans, too, though more research needs to be done. Find carrot oil in South Beach Sun Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30 ($7.79; drugstore.com).

MILK THISTLE A study published in the medical journal Cancer Research concluded that silymarin, an antioxidant compound found in the milk thistle plant, significantly reduced the incidence of skin tumors when applied topically. While currently available in hydrating products like Bath & Body Works Pure Simplicity Milk Thistle Hydrating Face Cream ($18; bathandbodyworks.com), expect to see milk thistle on the labels of sun-care products soon.

COPYRIGHT 2004 Weider Publications
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