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Panthenol

Panthenol is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Therefore it is also called provitamin B5. In organisms it is quickly oxidized to pantothenate. Its chemical formula is C9H19NO4 or HO-CH2-C(CH3)2-CH(OH)-CONH-CH2CH2CH2-OH. It comes as a white or creamy white crystalline powder with slight characteristic odor. It is well-soluble in water, alcohol and propylene glycol, soluble in ether and chloroform, and slightly soluble in glycerin. more...

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Its CAS number is 81-13-0 and its SMILES structure is =CC(C)(CO)C(C(=O)NCCCO)O.

Panthenol comes in two enantiomers, D and L. Only D-panthenol (dexpanthenol) is biologically active, however both forms have moisturizing properties. For cosmetic use, panthenol comes either in D form, or as a racemic mixture of D and L (DL-panthenol).

In cosmetics, panthenol is a humectant, emollient and moisturizer. It binds to hair follicles readily. It is a frequent component of shampoos and hair conditioners. It coats the hair and seals its surface, lubricating them and making them appear shiny.

In skin cells, panthenol is absorbed and metabolized to pantothenic acid; it incites new cell growth, binds water, and acts as a moisturizer. In hair, it serves only as a moisturizing coating and does not undergo modification.

In shampoos and conditioners, panthenol is usually present in concentrations of 0.1-1%. In ointments it is contained in concentrations of up to 2-5% and is used for treatment of sunburns, burns and minor skin disorders. In such mixtures it is sometimes used together with allantoin.

Other names for panthenol are:

  • Butanamide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, (R)-
  • Butyramide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, D-(+)-
  • Butanamide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, (2R)-
  • D-Panthenol
  • Dexpanthenol (DCIR)
  • Dexpanthenolum
  • Panthenol
  • Propanolamine, N-pantoyl-
  • d-Pantothenyl alcohol

See also:

  • Sci-toys: ingredients: panthenol
  • Household Products Database

Read more at Wikipedia.org


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Hand therapy: most of us don't lift a finger to keep our hands youthful, but they're one of the first places to show signs of aging
From Shape, 11/1/05 by Tess Ghilaga

Your hands are jealous. They know how you pamper and protect your face, and they want equal attention. After all, they're just as exposed to harsh elements, like the sun and wind, as well as a host of others too (remember that bathtub cleanser you got all over them last week?). As with your face, small daily assaults can result in persistent dryness, mottled texture, pigmentation spots and other evidence of early aging.

"Women are really taking advantage of anti-aging face treatments and seeing a difference, but then they neglect their hands, which can easily look a decade older than they should," says Ava Shamban, M.D., a dermatologist in Santa Monica, Calif. The benefits of hand care go beyond personal TLC. "Your hands say so much about you," says Karen Elizaga, president and founder of New York City-based Forward Options, which helps young women hone their interviewing skills for the workplace. "Well-kept hands show the world you care about the details--when they're spotted and sagging, it's the same as walking around in a wrinkled shirt." That's why we asked top experts for simple ways, below, to keep these oft-forgotten parts looking their best.

Shut out the elements

Whipping winds and dry indoor and outdoor air can strip moisture from skin, resulting in chapped hands and ragged cuticles. The solutions:

* Wear gloves to shut out winter air, and use a moisturizer that contains humectants, such as shea butter, glycerin and/or hyaluronic acid. These form a protective barrier on skin and cuticles to help them retain moisture. Tip: Apply while skin is damp to further lock in moisture. Best bets: SkinMilk Hand Cream ($5; at drug-stores); De~luxe Shea 25% Pure Shea Butter Hand Creme ($8; truescents.com for store locations), with glycerin; and Clarins Age-Control Hand Lotion SPF 15 ($27; gloss.com).

* Don't forget your cuticles. "Cuticles serve to protect the nail matrix, where nail cells are formed, so it's crucial to keep them hydrated and free of biting, tearing or picking," Shamban says. Try Crabtree & Evelyn's La Source Nail & Cuticle Therapy ($10; crabtree-evelyn.com) with moisture-rich panthenol.

Protect from chemicals

Exposing skin to household cleansers can rob it of moisture. (These cleansers contain detergents that wash away beneficial, natural skin oils.) Similarly, exposure to chemicals also dries and weakens nails and contributes to cracked cuticles, which can leave skin open to infection. Shamban recommends always wearing gloves (latex or rubber) while doing household chores. Her other tip:

* Apply hand cream before pulling on gloves. Try Vaseline Intensive Care Healthy Hand & Nail Lotion ($4) or Johnson's Softcream Extra Care Healing Hand Cream ($4; both at drugstores). Your body heat will help the emollients penetrate while you work. But chores aside, a truly effective glove is one that moisturizes as well as protects hands; we love Bliss Glamour Gloves ($50; blissworld.com), which contain nourishing jojoba oil and vitamin E (note: these are meant for pure pampering, not for household chores).

Slough for softness

Like the face, hands benefit from exfoliation. Getting rid of dead, dulling cells will make hands feel smoother and give them a youthful glow. But since skin on the backs of the hands has fewer oil glands and less underlying fat than other body parts, it's less "tough," so a gentle approach is required.

* Try a scrub that's specifically formulated for your hands. We love: Cake Milk Made Smoothing Hand & Cuticle Buffer ($18; cakebeauty.com), which contains fine white sugar to exfoliate and rich sunflower-seed oil to help prevent dry skin; and Talika's Hand Ritual ($55; sephora.com), a two-step process consisting of a scrub to smooth and a moisturizing serum to hydrate and soften skin.

Lighten spots

Because exfoliating removes the skin's outermost layer, it can also help reduce the appearance of sunspots--the skin's response to sun damage. But exfoliating helps only to a point. For the most part, sunspots lurk below the surface of your skin, says New York City dermatologist Francesca Fusco, M.D. A good strategy:

* Pair chemical exfoliators like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) with a lightening agent, such as kojic acid, licorice extract or vitamin C. By penetrating the skin's top layer, AHAs can help the lighteners to absorb deeply. Find the right combination in Manicure by O.P.I Rejuvenating Serum ($24; opi.com for store locations). To prevent spots, use SPF-containing products on hands when you're outside, including during the winter months. Your best solution: Barielle's moisture-locking Ultra Soft Hand Creme with SPF 15 ($15; barielle.com).

Prevent sagging skin

Aging causes a loss of fat and collagen on the backs of the hands; the result is a sinewy look. Little can be done once fat is gone, so prevention with sunscreen is crucial. Still, there are steps you can take to keep your hands moisturized:

* Make sure your hand cream contains water, which temporarily plumps skin. Anti-aging creams and serums smooth wrinkles. Try Lancome Absolue Hand Absolute Anti-Age Spot Replenishing Unifying Treatment SPF 15 ($42; lancome.com) or Sally Hansen Age Correct Hand Lift Firming Serum ($6; at drugstores).

Ask your dermatologist

If you want an accelerated hand makeover, your dermatologist can provide speedy gratification.

* Request fat injections. Taken from your buttocks or thighs, these can plump up the backs of hands, but expect bruising and a high cost (about $1,800).

* Try lasers and peels. Certain lasers, such as the Fraxel laser, can permanently zap age spots and smooth roughness (cost: $750-$1,000 per treatment; expect to need two to three). Gentle glycolic peels ($125-$200 per session; you'll need about six) can also smooth surface texture and lighten spots.

RELATED ARTICLE: 5 Must-Try Indulgences

If kicking back with a pampering wax dip at your local nail salon is your version of relaxation, these spa treats (with easy, at-home versions) will leave you feeling like royalty.

1 BOCA RATON, FLA.

THE SPA TREAT Protein Manicure at Eden Day Spa ($25; 561-447-7700) incorporates almond oil in the honey-almond exfoliation and a protein solution to strengthen and revive nails.

AT-HOME CHEAT Use a moisturizing, exfoliating scrub. Best bet: Creative Nail Design SolarManicure ($14; creativenaildesign.com for store information) with moisture-rich jojoba oil and vitamin E.

2 CHICAGO

THE SPA TREAT Mango-Pineapple Enzyme Manicure at Spa Space ($30; 312-466-9585) begins with a mango fizz finger soak that packs fruit-acid antioxidants, as well as vitamin E to strengthen nails and cuticles. After soaking, experience a mango sugar scrub to reduce age spots and fine lines.

AT-HOME CHEAT In a mixing bowl, combine warm water, Molton Brown's Thai Vert Fine Liquid Handwash ($23) and Thai Vert Soothing Hand Lotion ($25; both at moltonbrown.com); immerse hands for 10 minutes.

3 LOS ANGELES

THE SPA TREAT Fountain Jubilee Hand Retreat at Le Petite Retreat ($40; 323-466-1028) is a five-step treatment using rose petals and bath salts that leaves your entire body feeling relaxed.

AT-HOME CHEAT Give your hands a massage using a luxurious hand cream, such as Chantecaille Retinol Hand Cream ($68; neimanmarcus.com) with healing lemon extract, refreshing rosewater and wrinkle-fighting retinol.

4 NEW YORK CITY

THE SPA TREAT Bliss Upper Hand Manicure ($60; blissworld.com) includes a hydrating collagen and elastin mask and soothing rose and jasmine paraffin wrap, followed by a hot-cream manicure.

AT-HOME CHEAT Apply a nourishing mask once a week to rejuvenate overworked hands. One to try: Barielle Revitalizing Moisture Masque ($25; barielle.com), with algae extract, clay and hydrating spearmint leaf oil.

5 NEW YORK CITY

THE SPA TREAT Guinot Beaute Neuve Hand Treatment at BuffSpa at Bergdorf Goodman ($70; 212-872-8624) is a multistep treatment that hydrates, helps fade age spots and softens the skin thanks to a fruit-based exfoliator, restorative serum with vitamins A, C and E, and a generous slathering of hand lotion.

AT-HOME CHEAT For silky-smooth digits, exfoliate hands twice weekly (try L'Oreal ReFinish Chest, Arms & Hands Micro-Dermabrasion Kit, $25; at drugstores; and follow with your favorite hand lotion).

TESS GHILAGA is a New York City-based writer who does everything in her power to keep her hands from aging.

COPYRIGHT 2005 Weider Publications
COPYRIGHT 2005 Gale Group

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