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Panthenol

Panthenol is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Therefore it is also called provitamin B5. In organisms it is quickly oxidized to pantothenate. Its chemical formula is C9H19NO4 or HO-CH2-C(CH3)2-CH(OH)-CONH-CH2CH2CH2-OH. It comes as a white or creamy white crystalline powder with slight characteristic odor. It is well-soluble in water, alcohol and propylene glycol, soluble in ether and chloroform, and slightly soluble in glycerin. more...

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Its CAS number is 81-13-0 and its SMILES structure is =CC(C)(CO)C(C(=O)NCCCO)O.

Panthenol comes in two enantiomers, D and L. Only D-panthenol (dexpanthenol) is biologically active, however both forms have moisturizing properties. For cosmetic use, panthenol comes either in D form, or as a racemic mixture of D and L (DL-panthenol).

In cosmetics, panthenol is a humectant, emollient and moisturizer. It binds to hair follicles readily. It is a frequent component of shampoos and hair conditioners. It coats the hair and seals its surface, lubricating them and making them appear shiny.

In skin cells, panthenol is absorbed and metabolized to pantothenic acid; it incites new cell growth, binds water, and acts as a moisturizer. In hair, it serves only as a moisturizing coating and does not undergo modification.

In shampoos and conditioners, panthenol is usually present in concentrations of 0.1-1%. In ointments it is contained in concentrations of up to 2-5% and is used for treatment of sunburns, burns and minor skin disorders. In such mixtures it is sometimes used together with allantoin.

Other names for panthenol are:

  • Butanamide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, (R)-
  • Butyramide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, D-(+)-
  • Butanamide, 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethyl-, (2R)-
  • D-Panthenol
  • Dexpanthenol (DCIR)
  • Dexpanthenolum
  • Panthenol
  • Propanolamine, N-pantoyl-
  • d-Pantothenyl alcohol

See also:

  • Sci-toys: ingredients: panthenol
  • Household Products Database

Read more at Wikipedia.org


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5 steps to vibrant color: the complete guide to do-it-yourself highlights and hair coloring
From Shape, 8/1/04 by Braden Harcourt

At-home hair coloring used to be a risky undertaking: Too often, hair ended up looking like a botched science experiment. Luckily, home hair-color products have come a long way. While still a quick, affordable alternative to a professional job, using today's versions benefits from virtually goof-proof directions, gentler ingredients and advanced formulations that have improved the shine and richness of most colorants. But first figure out your hair-hue goals, and know when to call on a salon pro. "Women have the best luck coloring their own hair when they're only going a shade or two lighter or darker than their natural hair color or they're covering some gray," says Los Angeles-based colorist Patti Song. Read on as the pros guide you through the process to successful at-home coloring--from preparing your hair to choosing the right products and following the proper techniques.

Step 1: Assess your tresses. Consider what kind of condition your hair is in before coloring. The healthier it is, the better the results will be. Song says. She suggests pampering hair several times in the week before you color it. Use hair treatments that contain the hair-strengthening B vitamin panthenol, such as Kiehl's Leave-In Hair Conditioner with Panthenol and Coconut Oil ($29; 800-KIEHLS-1). Or try products with hydrating ingredients like vitamin E, avocado or coconut oil. However, "if your hair is really dry and damaged with split ends, use a color-depositing conditioner for a few months instead of coloring it," suggests celebrity colorist Giselle of the Pierre Michel Salon in New York City. Color-depositing conditioners leave behind color-boosting pigments and give you a less-drastic, temporary change. Post-coloring, use hair-conditioning treatments twice a month.

Step 2: Pick the right color. Choosing the right color is the key to success. Aveda colorist Ana Karzis, technical director of Civello Salons in Toronto, suggests taking a good look at your natural hair color in bright daylight. Then pick a shade that will complement your eyes and skin tone. For example, if you have a warm complexion (yellow or olive tones), select colors with names like auburn, copper, red or sienna. Cool skin types (fair, ivory or ruddy skin) should look for colors with ash or beige tones. For help choosing, call the manufacturers' consultants (they're listed on any hair-color box); they can suggest a color and product that will give you the best results.

If you want highlights and at-home products are all your budget will allow, Giselle suggests highlighting just a few pieces around your face. Her favorite: Clairol Herbal Essences Highlights ($10; at drugstores), which has an easy-to-use comb and a color formula that shows up either blue, yellow or red (depending on what color you're using) so that you can see exactly where you've put the highlights.

Step 3: Choose a formula. Most pros suggest starting with a demipermanent color or rinse (see "Hair-color Glossary" at right), such as Clairol Natural Instincts ($8; at drugstores). These are gentle and last up to 28 shampoos. If you want permanent color, opt for drip-free formulas (they're less messy), such as L'Oreal Excellence Creme ($9; at drugstores), which also comes with a pre-color treatment to take care of dry ends.

Step 4: Get prepped. It can't be emphasized often enough: Read and reread the instructions before applying color for the first time. That also means following the instructions, especially the recommended first-time allergy and strand tests (the latter allows you to preview the exact color your hair will be), application tips and timing.

Step 5: Maintain the color. After styling and, hopefully, loving your new hue, you'll need to protect and maintain the color. Minimize your exposure to sun and chlorine, and avoid overusing heated styling appliances (such as blowdryers and curling or flat irons); these can fade color and damage fragile hair, says color director Christian Fleres of Nubest Salon & Spa in Manhasset, N.Y. To keep hair shiny and hydrated, use shampoos, conditioners and treatments specially formulated for color-treated hair. Editor's favorites: Redken Color Extend Total Recharge ($15; 800-REDKEN-8) and Pantene Pro-V Color Revival Shampoo and Complete Therapy Conditioner ($4 each; at drugstores).

RELATED ARTICLE: hair-color glossary

The terms you need to know before you color your hair:

Temporary color simply coats the hair shaft and rinses out after one shampoo.

Semi-permanent color washes out after six to 12 shampoos. It enhances natural hair color but won't lighten it and won't cover gray.

Demi-permanent (aka tone-on-tone) color lasts up to 28 shampoos. Contains lower levels of peroxide (which means it's less harsh and drying) than permanent color. It's great for creating natural-looking tone changes (such as taking brown hair to a rich auburn shade) and will cover gray.

Permanent color doesn't wash out, and requires touching up of the roots every four to six weeks. It contains both ammonia and peroxide, so it can lighten, darken and/or completely change your hair color; it can also cover gray.

Highlights use peroxide to lighten hair, which is permanent, lasting until it grows out.

RELATED ARTICLE: Shape giveaway get gorgeous highlights ... FOR FREE!

Want to re-create sun-kissed streaks? We're giving away 250 Clairol Hair-Painting kits (an $11 value!). This easy-to-use kit comes in two formulas--one for light-blond to medium-brown hair and one for light to dark brown hair. Its brush-on cream formula lets you control where you put streaks, and an intensive conditioner keeps hair soft and hydrated. Log on to Shape.com/clairol from July 14 to Aug. 9 for your chance to win. Good luck!

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