Panthenol

Summer may conjure up visions of windblown hair and sun-drenched highlights, but the reality is that the season's sun, heat, salt and chlorine can leave your hair damaged and dry--and looking anything but healthy and beautiful. With the right tips, cuts, tools and products, however, you can get the gorgeous hair you want--no matter how high the temperature soars--and have it in great shape come fall. With the help of some of the country's top hair-care experts, here's simple advice on keeping every hair type looking its best.

* problem Fragile hair, damaged by chemical processing

"Every time we do something to our hair--whether it's washing, coloring or even perspiring--we lose ceramides [the hair's bonds] that naturally give hair elasticity and suppleness," says New York City stylist Carmine Minardi of the Minardi Salon. "It's critical to take care of your hair, especially in summer's drying elements, so you aren't paying for it come September." Here, how to undo the damage and get healthier, stronger locks:

* Choose the right color. Ask your stylist to switch to a vegetable-based, ammonia-free hair color, recommends stylist Kim Vo, co-owner of the B2V Salon in West Hollywood, Calif. "This is a damage-free process that's less drying on strands." If you want to color hair yourself at home, see "5 Steps to Vibrant Color," page 84.

* Use shampoos and conditioners for color-treated hair. They're extra-gentle on hair and won't strip color. Best bets: Bain de Terre Kiwi Color Protecting Shampoo ($9; 800-242-WAVE), Jingles Color Therapie Shampoo and Conditioner ($19 and $14; 800-783-9969) and Wella Color Preserve Shampoo and Conditioner ($11 and $12; 800-843-2656).

* Incorporate nourishing oils into your weekly routine. Los Angeles-based celebrity hair colorist Jonathan Gale uses hydrating oils on his star clients (his favorite: Dr. Hauschka Neem Hair Oil, $23.50; drhauschka.com) before coloring to strengthen and protect the hair. The essential oils help make hair more lustrous and strong.

* Be label-conscious. Spend an extra minute reading product labels to ensure your hair is getting what it needs. Colored and/or processed hair needs moisture-drenching ingredients like jojoba oil, olive oil, lanolin, almond oil and shea butter, to help lock in moisture and prevent brittle strands (and split ends come fall). Other key ingredients: pro-vitamin [B.sub.5] (also known as panthenol), which prevents heat damage and makes hair stronger, and vitamin E, which acts as a hydrator. These ingredients help prevent brassiness or color degradation. Editor's favorite: L'Anza Magic Bullet Hair Healer ($16; lanza.com), which is packed with damage-repairing ingredients like algae extract, allantoin and ultraviolet (UV)-light protectants.

* Don't skimp on protection. "It's never too late in the season to start protecting your hair against the sun's damaging UV rays," says hairstylist and New York City salon owner Mark Garrison. "Like our skin, it needs screening against sun exposure. Sunscreen, scarves, hats--use whatever you want to avoid direct exposure." Best everyday protector: Kerastase Soleil Voile Protecteur ($29; 877-748-8357), an invisible, non-oily spray with UV filters that can be applied as frequently as desired. Also, before hitting the pool or ocean, which further dries out locks, apply a waterproof gel or leave-in conditioner with UV protection. Try Charles Worthington Take Aways Suntime Safe Sun Waterproof UV-Protection Hair Gel ($2; 800-519-8121).

* Be extra-gentle with strands. If you normally blow-dry your hair or use heated styling tools on a daily basis, give your hair a break for the month of August and let it air-dry. "The added heat from the dryer can open the cuticle (the protective layer of the hair shaft) and make it more vulnerable to sunlight, chlorine or salt water," explains Vo, who also recommends using an extra-gentle boar-bristle brush on weak strands (his favorite: the Marilyn New Yorker brush, $22.50-$27.75; themarilynbrush.com).

In-salon boost: The brand-new Alterna Caviar Rejuvenation Treatment gives colored hair more luster and shine ($50; 888-4ALTERNA for salon locations).

* problem Straight hair that gets flat, limp and flyaway

"The humidity in summer can really weigh down straight hair, leaving locks limp," Minardi explains. "But one way to counteract these effects: volumizing products, used now and year-round." To get your hair looking lustrous and full, rather than lifeless, try these expert tips:

* Know your shampoos and conditioners. "Straight hair needs powerful cleansing shampoos and light conditioners," Minardi says. "Unlike other hair types, straight hair doesn't need a lot of moisture because too much hydration can make hair even more flat." Try KMS Amp Volume Shampoo and Reconstructor ($9 and $10; kmshaircare.com) and Dove Extra Volume Shampoo and Conditioner ($3.69 each; at drugstores).

* Get used to mousse again. Mousses went out of fashion for a while, being replaced in many women's beauty arsenals by gels and other holding products. But mousse is back--in even lighter formulations. Internationally renowned stylist Frederic Fekkai recommends applying a teaspoon-sized amount of volumizing mousse (such as his Full Volume Mousse, $18.50; sephora.com; or Suave Professionals new Volumizing Foam, $2.29; at drugstores) to damp hair. Start at the crown of your head, then flip your head upside down and lift your hair at the roots with your fingers.

* Use the right blow-dryer. Switch to a bio-ionic hair dryer like Conair's Ion Shine ($25; at drugstores) and brush (try F.R. Signature Series Intensive Ion-Smoothing Brush, $27-$38; www.bioionic.com)--both use natural ions, which have been shown to restore moisture balance to the hair. "This type of dryer dries the hair in 20 percent less time, while the brushes have shorter bristles so there are fewer tangles and therefore less breakage," Minardi explains. "Overdrying or overbrushing can easily lead to flyaway hair."

In-salon boost: A "swell" perm gives straight hair body without spirals and ringlets. "Unlike a traditional perm, the giant perm rods are removed during the neutralizing process," Minardi says. "This adds volume--not curls." Cost: about $150-$225, depending on the length of hair and the salon location. This mildly volumizing perm will last 10-12 weeks, but those with heavily highlighted or bleached hair should avoid it as it could cause further damage. Call your local salon for more information.

* problem Curly hair that gives you grief--not to mention frizz and unnecessary volume

"It's so important for curly hair to be taken care of year-round--especially during the summer--or it will look big and bloated come fall," Fekkai says. To manage your mane:

* Use curl-friendly shampoos and conditioners. Since dry hair is most likely to frizz and look dull, it really needs moisture. Look for heavy hitters like panthenol, ceramides, vitamins and oils. "But don't wash it every day," advises Aandre Rodman, a stylist at New York City's Oscar Blandi Salon. "Curly hair really needs the oils." Try Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner ($6; at drugstores) or Curlisto Systems Botanical Shampoo and Botanical Rinse ($10 and $12; curlisto.com). "Also, don't use what's in the gym shower," Garrison warns. "It's probably not hydrating enough for curly hair. And avoid clarifying and volumizing shampoos, which can strip hair of much-needed moisture."

* Incorporate deep conditioning into your weekly routine. Conditioners rehydrate hair and add shine, suppleness and manageability. "If you have curly hair and highlights and blow-dry regularly, you've got a triple whammy," Vo explains. "All I can say is condition, condition, condition. Once a week, all year-round, you need to make a deep conditioner part of your routine." Try Philip B. Rejuvenating Oil for Dry to Damaged Hair and Scalp ($29; philipb.com) or Lavett & Chin Extensive Treatment Mango Butter & Shea Blend ($35; beautyhabit.com).

* Make leave-in frizz creams part of your daily arsenal. Leave-in creams like L'Oreal VIVE Smooth-Intense Anti-Frizz Cream ($6; at drugstores) smooth and tame rebellious hair while adding moisture throughout the day. Start with a dime-sized drop on towel-dried hair, and add more if you need to.

* Use the right tools. Most experts agree, letting hair dry naturally will mean healthier locks come fall. But if you have to blow-dry, use a spray that protects hair from heat, such as Aveda Brilliant Damage Control ($5.50; aveda.com), and shape curls with a diffuser. Or Minardi suggests using a curling iron with a large, 1 1/2- to 2-inch barrel. Wrap dry hair two or three times around the iron to make frizz-free, perfect curls. Editor's favorite: the BaByliss 1 1/2" Curling Iron ($69; at beauty-supply stores).

* Keep styling simple. "Curly hair tends to be more fragile and weak due to excessive drying and the use of straightening irons, so if you put your hair up in a ponytail frequently, don't keep your rubber band in the same spot," advises Zak, a senior stylist at the Avon Salon & Spa in New York City. "It will cause repeated breakage to the same area." Snag-free hair elastics are your best option. Try Goody Ouchless accessories ($2.49-$5; at drugstores).

In-salon boost: Kerastase Aqua-Oleum is a deep-penetrating liquid conditioner applied for up to 10 minutes, building moisture from within and adding shine that lasts for about 10-14 days. Cost: $25-$35; call (877) 748-8357 to find a salon near you.

* problem Naturally wavy tresses that become unruly

"Wavy hair needs products that will weigh hair down a bit while holding the curls together," advises Rodman. "The last thing you want is to move into fall with a head of big, bushy hair." To show your misbehaving locks who's boss, try these tips:

* Get a trim. "Trim your hair every six to eight weeks," advises B2V's Vo. Frizzies and flyaways are a sure sign of damaged and split ends, and trimming is the only way to eliminate them.

* Look for hydrating shampoos/conditioners. Ceramides, aloe and vitamin B are all moisturizing (and smoothing) ingredients. Good bets: Garnier Fructis Fortifying Shampoo and Cream Conditioner ($4 each; at drugstores) and John Frieda Frizz-Ease Smooth Start Defrizzing & Nourishing Shampoo and Smooth Control Defrizzing & Nourishing Conditioner, Extra Strength Formula ($5 each; at drugstores).

* Try a heat-protector spray. "Hair is most vulnerable when it's hot," says Arnaldo Cruz of the Xoma Salon in Short Hills, N.J. If you're going to blow-dry or iron hair, don't forget to apply a heat-protector spray before your styling products. Try L'Oreal Alt. Studio Iron-Tamer Spritz ($6; at drugstores), Joico Color Endurance Color Care Thermal Styling Spray ($14; 800-44-JOICO) or Matrix Sleek.look Iron Smoother ($14; matrix.com).

* Get acquainted with smoothing serums. If you want to go straight, rub two or three drops of these serums--which are made of strand-controlling silicone--onto the palms of your hand, then smooth over wet hair before blow-drying. (Try Redken Glass 01 Smoothing Serum, $14; redken.com, or Paul Mitchell's new Super Skinny Serum, $16; at salons). "Wait until hair is three-quarters dry before you start using the dryer on it," suggests B2V's Vo. "The less time using heat, the better." Then use a glossing cream or shine spray after drying to tame flyaways and frizzies. Try Infusium 23 Complete Frizz Control Treatment ($6; at drugstores).

* Use the right flat iron. If you're addicted to your flat iron, which can really harm your hair, switch to the Wet To Dry Flat Iron by Krembs ($190; markgarrisonsalon.com). Designed to be used on damp hair (instead of dry hair, like traditional flat irons), this kind uses the newest technology and dries hair as it straightens, thereby reducing your time under the damaging heat. "It's also ideal for ironing out bangs or those flyaway front pieces," says Garrison, who can't keep the iron in stock at his Manhattan salon.

* To enhance your waves, use a texturizing product. To make the most of your hair's natural body without using heat, comb a quarter-sized dollop of texturizing gel or cream through damp hair and wind hair around your fingers to set into soft waves. Then let it dry naturally. "The less fussing, the better," Rodman explains. Try Bumble and bumble Curl Conscious Curl Creme ($25; bumbleandbumble.com).

In-salon boost: Try an lonic Conditioning Treatment to restore vitality. Colorist Nelson Chan of the Estetica Salon in Beverly Hills, Calif., says his celeb clients (who include Sarah Michelle Gellar) rave about how silky their hair is after the 30-minute treatment. Cost: starts at $75; call (888) 755-6834 or go to www.bioionic.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: the right cut: textured shag

Good for: all hair types including color-treated. "This very versatile cut looks good on anyone--whether they have long, straight or wavy hair," says Redken stylist Rodney Cutler, owner of Cutler Salon in New York City, who created the cuts for this story. "The bangs enable you to change your hairstyle easily, without drastically cutting your length or increasing your styling routine. I used layering techniques to create texture and movement, which really show off highlights and play up summer streaks."

RELATED ARTICLE: the right cut: choppy shag

Good for: straight hair. "Summertime is ideal for letting loose and trying something new, like this edgy, rock-n-roll cut," explains Cutler, who layered, razored and textured the hair all over to give it a relaxed, messy feel. "You can blow it straight or wear it wavy and more piece-y and textured. Either way, it's a very cool look to head into fall with."

RELATED ARTICLE: the right cut: romantic curls

Good for: curly hair with a tendency to frizz. "It can be a nightmare to make curly hair straight, so this simple cut lets you work with what you have," says Cutler, who texturized the hair by point-cutting (cutting at an angle) and razoring to create movement throughout the ends. "What makes this modern is that these curls have a more uniform, polished feel. Here, we dried the hair and then used a large barrel curling iron to curl it under. We then brushed it out with our hands to create luscious, dense curls. It's a great look whether you're wearing a bathing suit in August or a turtleneck in October."

RELATED ARTICLE: the right cut: '80s layers

Good for: naturally wavy hair. "I like to think of this style as Victoria's Secret glam," Cutler explains. "It's the perfect cut for anyone with wavy hair who doesn't know what to do with it. Long hair never goes out of style, but with this '80s-inspired cut I gave it a modern twist by adding numerous layers all over for greater movement. I used a curling iron around the face-framing layers to 'flick' the hair away from the face for a fresh, 2004 feeling."

Photography by Fernando Milani

Heidi Schiller is a freelance beauty writer based in New York City.

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