Geographic tongue

NEARLY TWENTY-TWO QUARTS PER PERSON: according to the International Ice Cream Association, that's how much of the stuff, on average, each American man, woman and child ate last year. In total, that's 1.4 billion gallons, with vanilla, chocolate, nut, caramel, Neapolitan and strawberry varieties making up 68% of all ice cream consumed. What about the other 32%? Could be citrus or cinnamon, coffee or peppermint--but if what's going on in restaurant kitchens is any indication, it could just as easily be avocado, blue cheese, curry or ox tongue. While Escoffier's Guide Culinaire (1903) features a recipe for asparagus ice cream, the vast majority of the world's frozen confections have been based on sweet components and/or made sweet by any number of agents. In the current restaurant climate, spurred perhaps by the growing popularity of avante-garde cuisine, or perhaps by the dietary vogue of the moment that favors dairy products over breads and grains, frozen confections are crossing the line from sweet to savory in record numbers, becoming nearly as ubiquitous at the beginning of a meal--chicken wing ice cream, anyone?--as at its more traditional end.

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The history of ice cream, explored in detail in Art Culinaire issues 29 and 65, remains a matter of some debate, with many cultures taking credit for its creation. A careful reader might come to the conclusion that, like language, ice cream has evolved more or less simultaneously in many parts of the world, with the current incarnations reflecting the natural resources, cultural beliefs and levels of prosperity of their respective geographic locations.

Art Culinaire asked Stanley Wong and Pichet Ong, both of Spice Market, in New York, to create dishes that incorporate frozen confections. From mango chutney ice cream to a sweetly potent cocktail slush to hot snow, Wong's frozen scoops push any number of buttons. And, from Ong, a pastry chef who is as likely to use wasabi or cilantro as coconut and caramel, we got a whole lot more than vanilla, chocolate and strawberry. Grab a spoon and dig in.

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DAYS OF OVALTINE AND ROSES

IF NOT FOR THE COLD INTR USION OF THE COMPUTER into the world of architecture, we might never have known the cold pleasure of Ovaltine kulfi, as created by pastry chef Pichet Ong. Currently a consulting chef for Jean-Georges Vongerichten and the ranking pastry chef at New York's 66 and Spice Market restaurants, Ong was trained as an architect, but found himself increasingly alienated from his profession, as drafting and modeling programs replaced the real-world techniques of the field.

"I love working with my hands. As a student I did a lot of drawings, built up a lot of models, but when the computer was introduced to architecture, that somehow turned me off, and the process was no longer interesting to me."

Ong has long since abandoned digital blueprints for the likes of tapioca, papaya and lime, but his work still allows him to draw on his aesthetic sense. He's made his mark with whimsical, visually appealing desserts that recall the flavors of a childhood spent in his native Thailand, as well as in Hong Kong and Singapore, which he calls "the ultimate melting pot." Ong and his family moved to New York when he was 12, and he departed for Brandeis University, in Boston, after graduating from high school.

He says, "I grew up with a lot of the flavors I'm using now, like malt, peanut butter, rose and coconut, which I think is really interesting when you combine it with something floral, or with vanilla. To me, vanilla and coconut are the ultimate fusion of Asian and continental flavors."

And let's not forget Ovaltine, which Ong has been spinning into his confections for ten years, and which first made an impression on his palate as a kind of curative elixir, "I was actually lactose intolerant as a kid, and the only way I could consume dairy was if I mixed milk with Ovaltine. I'm a big fan of it now," he adds.

He's also a big fan of what he calls a "west coast" approach to food, which he first discovered as an architecture student at UC Berkeley, moonlighting at Chez Panisse in exchange for an informal kitchen education--and free dessert. A few years later, he returned to Chez Panisse as a full-time employee, and later went on to become the pastry chef at San Francisco's La Folie, under Roland Passot. He elaborates on his perception of the California mentality.

"The wide availability of produce in California, and fresh produce being available more often--good tomatoes, good berries--this causes a lot of chefs to look at food differently. You can have a great bowl of strawberries, so why do anything to it? I really like the kind of dessert that requires the minimum amount of effort to make it tasty."

This preference for simplicity seems directly at odds with Ong's desserts, in which water chestnuts are candied into jewels and coconut is manipulated to resemble flakes of sweet ice and snow. When pressed for further explanation, he defers to the sculptor Constantin Brancusi, saying, "There's quote of his I really relate to--'simplicity is complexity resolved.' I like flavors that are simple and straightforward, where you eat it and you can tell what it is. I'd like to think that the flavors in my desserts are that way, even though, when they come together on the plate, sure, they seem complex. People read what I'm doing as different and complex and original, but to me, these are familiar desserts and flavors that I've been doing for a long time."

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Simple or complex, Ong's way with savory seasonings and classic Asian ingredients is very much in demand.

"In a typical day, I'll come to work early in the morning, and about three times a week I have to do a demo, either at the restaurant itself, or at a school, or sometimes even on television," he laughs, sounding equal parts pleased and surprised. Ong has already been featured on the morning network shows and Iron Chef America. He admits to a hunger for a more permanent television niche, while acknowledging the relative dearth of opportunities for pastry chefs. He speculates, "There haven't been many shows featuring pastry chefs, because the pastry arts have been viewed as being difficult or scientific, with lots of precise measured steps, and many secrets."

Until that big offer from PBS or the Food Network comes through, he's content to demystify his work on the page. Having recently finished writing, with Mark Bittman, the pastry section of a book of recipes from Jean-Georges' Asian restaurants, when we spoke he was shopping the proposal for his own book.

Being a writer may take him out of the kitchen and back in front of a computer, the very tool that drove him into the kitchen in the first place, but Ong insists that he'll never abandon the tactile pleasures of his profession, concluding, "I think the hands are the ultimate tools, and everything else is just an extension of your hands."

ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE STREET

UNTIL THE EARLY SPRING of 2004, street food in Manhattan meant chewy pretzels, bristling with salt and dripping with yellow mustard, or "dirty water" hot dogs stuffed into soft white buns and heaped with sauerkraut. That, however, was before a trio of seasoned chefs, having found culinary inspiration in the open-air markets of Southeast Asia, returned from their travels and opened Spice Market. Situated in the white hot heart of New York's Meatpacking District and lushly appointed in dark wood, bright silks and white leather chairs, it's about as "street" as starlet Paris Hilton, but a whole lot smarter--and it's put that city's pushcart food on serious notice.

STANLEY WONG

SPICE MARKET * NEW YORK, NY

Spice Market is the fifteenth property in the Jean-Georges Vongerichten empire, a collection currently that includes eight New York properties, as well as outposts in Chicago, Las Vegas, the Bahamas, Paris, Shanghai and Hong Kong. While Vongerichten and consulting chef Gray Kunz provided the restaurant's initial star-powered buzz, it's chef de cuisine Stanley Wong who keeps the crowds returning for up to 200 lunches and 500 dinners per day. You may recognize Wong from Art Culinaire Issue 66, or from TanDa, another Southeast Asian eatery in Manhattan, whose life was cut short by a concept and name change. Wong ruefully calls the decision to transform TanDa into Sage, a New American eatery, "a train wreck," noting that it closed shortly after the overhaul.

Opening Spice Market has been something of a dream deferred for Wong. He first worked with Vongerichten in 1997, in Hong Kong's Mandarin Oriental hotel, where Wong oversaw all culinary operations, including an outpost of Vong. Vongerichten was impressed with Wong's skills and knowledge, and invited him to New York to help with a new project. Initially slated for a 2001 opening, Spice Market took a back seat to Vongerichten's many other projects, leaving Wong cooling his heels at TanDa. "Luckily for me," says Wong, "shortly after the concept change, Jean-Georges asked me again to join him at Spice Market, and so here I am." Critical praise was immediate and effusive, including a coveted (and somewhat controversial) three-star rating from New York Times interim reviewer Amanda Hesser, who wrote lovingly of the food, the cocktails, the atmosphere, even the raw, meaty street smells outside, while conceding, "Many dishes are street food as invented by Spice Market."

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Wong concurs on this point. "Our food is adapted to New York," he explains. "Eighty to ninety percent of the flavors are authentic, but we apply some Western principles. For instance, in Singapore you can get a black pepper crab, but a New Yorker doesn't want to use his fingers to eat the crab, so we use whole shrimp instead, which can be picked up with chopsticks." Wong and Vongerichten have also adjusted some aesthetic aspects. "In an outdoor market, presentation is not really in the foreground. There's one dish from Hanoi, a turmeric-rubbed halibut, and it's usually chopped up in small pieces, with herbs wilted on top. It's a very tasty dish but it's not nicely presented, so instead we pan-sear the fillet, and serve it with an herb salad instead of wilting the herbs. In Hanoi they serve it with chopped peanuts, but we make a peanut sauce. The flavors are 100% accurate, it's just a different adaptation."

What has not been adjusted at Spice Market is the style of service that has eschews the order-fire, expeditor-controlled system for a less formal style, in which plates are delivered to tables as they come up. Dishes are also plated for family-style consumption. "We have a 60-foot kitchen, a very long kitchen, and we are really forced to serve family-style," says Wong. "We wouldn't even be able to consolidate dishes like in a French or Western-style kitchen and send them out by course, because of the kitchen's physical length." Some diners, notes Wong, have had to make a bit of an attitude adjustment about family-style dining. "It's actually been a bit of a problem in New York, because everyone is used to hogging their own dish," he laughs.

Wong tries to remain true to the roots of the cuisine by grinding spices in a mortar with a pestle. "If you go to a Southeast Asian kitchen, you'll see that they still rely heavily on the mortar and pestle. It's a nice tool to work with and requires a little more pride," he says, admitting that, because of the restaurant's high volume, they must also rely on the efficiency of electric grinders. Pride and a willingness to work hard are traits that Wong demands from his cooks, whose skills must measure up to the impeccable standard that Vongerichten's restaurants have come to represent.

"A lot of my cooks are from culinary school, but it's a New York kitchen, so I also have a lot of Latinos," he says, referring to the legions of immigrants from Mexico, Central and South America who make up the backbone of New York kitchen labor, nearly always without the benefit of formal culinary training. "I have to say the Latinos are some of the most reliable guys," he continues. "Some cooks come out of CIA and immediately expect to be made a chef or a sous chef. I don't always see that willingness to learn everything from the bottom up. The reality is, if you have loans for twenty-five, thirty thousand dollars in tuition fees, of course there's a lot of pressure. If you start out on top you can pay that debt off earlier, but do you really know your basics?" he wonders aloud, leaving little doubt that the answer is "no."

RELATED ARTICLE: Thai Jewels and Fruits on Crushed Coconut Ice (Serves 8)

PICHET ONG

Moscoto del Solo

Bonny Doon

Sonta Cruz, CA 2002

directions

For the palm sugar syrup: In a pot, combine all ingredients and heat until sugar is melted. Set aside to chill.

For the Thai jewels: Soak water chestnuts in cold water. Drain and cut into small dice. Divide water chestnuts evenly among two bowls. Add grenadine to one bowl and pandanus concentrate to the other. Toss to coat well and let both marinate for at least 10 minutes. Drain the grenadine chestnuts, reserving the marinade, and toss with half the tapioca flour. Shake off excess flour in a mesh bowl and cook water chestnuts in salted boiling water, stirring constantly. The jewels will float when cooked. Drain in a colander and set in an ice water bath until chilled. Return red jewels to grenadine marinade. Repeat procedure with Pandanus marinated chestnuts. Once cooled, add about four tablespoons palm sugar syrup to each batch, just enough to prevent them from sticking before use.

For the coconut soup base: In a pot, combine ingredients and bring to a simmer. Set aside to cool and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the crushed coconut ice: Unmold frozen coconut water into a heavy-duty plastic bag. Crush by hand with a heavy wooden stick until the ice is finely crushed. Remove any coconut meat and julienne.

To serve: Toss together fruit and drained jewels. For each serving, spoon about 1/2 cup crushed coconut ice into a chilled glass bowl. Top ice with 1/2 cup of jewels, fruit mixture and julienned coconut. Add enough coconut soup base to cover, about 1/2 cup, and serve with a spoon.

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ingredients

For the palm sugar syrup:

For the Thai jewels:

For the coconut soup base:

For the crushed coconut ice:

For the fruit:

*Pandan leaves are also called screwpine leaves. Available in Asian markets.

**Palm seed, also called sugar palm, toddy palm, nipa palm or atap, is the seed or fruit of tropical palms that are abundant along coastal shores and near rivers and swamps. Available in Asian markets.

***A relative of the fig with a bland, sweet flavor. Available through Kalustyans at (212) 685-3451 or www.kalustyans.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Mango Kulfi with Vermicelli Salad and Pistachio Dressing (Serves 8)

PICHET ONG

Freiso Frizzante

Bonny Doon

Santa Cruz, California 2003

directions

For the kulfi base: In a medium pot, cook mango, mango juice, vanilla, cardamom, sugar, salt and lemon juice over medium heat, until dry and pasty. Add cream and goat's milk and bring to a simmer. Let simmer for about 25 minutes, stirring frequently, until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from heat, strain and pour mixture into eight 4-ounce wax paper cups.

For the pistachio dressing: Heat oil in a saute pan over low heat. Add pistachios and lemongrass and saute until mixture is aromatic and pistachios are toasted, about five minutes. Remove from heat. Add goat's milk, sugar, salt, condensed milk, lime zest and juice. Transfer to a blender and puree. Add mint leaves and pulse until mint is broken up. Chill completely before using.

For vermicelli salad: Soak vermicelli in enough warm water to cover for about 10 minutes. Let drain over a colander until dry. Toss vermicelli with all remaining ingredients and set aside in refrigerator until ready to use.

For the clear pomegranate caramel: In a small pot, mix together sugar, water and lemon juice. Cook mixture to soft ball stage, 234 to 240 degrees, before caramel develops. Add pomegranate juice and molasses to stop cooking process. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For the cashew and pistachio brittle: In a heavy bottomed pot, combine sugar, water and corn syrup. Heat mixture until it is a medium caramel color. Stir in nuts and heat mixture to a dark caramel color. Place 1 tablespoon portions onto a Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan and sprinkle Fleur de Sel on top. Set aside to cool. Store in an airtight container until ready to use.

To serve: Unmold kulfi onto a plate, dipping into hot water for five seconds or tearing the paper cup as necessary. Garnish kulfi with pomegranate caramel and cashew and pistachio brittle. Serve with vermicelli salad on the side, garnished with torn mint leaves and extra pistachio dressing.

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ingredients

For the kulfi base:

For the pistachio dressing:

For the vermicelli salad:

For the clear pomegranate caramel:

For the cashew and pistachio brittle:

For the garnish:

*Available through Kalustyans at (212) 685-3451 or www.kalustyans.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Passionfruit Creamsicle with Coconut 4 Ways (Serves 8)

PICHET ONG

Champagne

Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label NV

Reims, France

directions

For the passionfruit sorbet: In a saucepan, bring water, banana, trimolene, sugar and salt to a boil. Transfer mixture to a blender and puree until smooth. Add orange juice, passionfruit juice and seeds and puree again until smooth. Pour ingredients into a Pacojet beaker; freeze for 24 hours. Just before serving, make sorbet following Pacojet's instructions. If using a traditional ice cream machine, chill mixture in an ice water bath. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the condensed milk ice cream: In a pot, combine milk, vanilla bean and salt and bring to a scald. In a bowl, whisk yolks. Temper yolks by adding one-third hot milk mixture to yolks while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolks back into hot milk mixture and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, add condensed milk and set in an ice water bath until chilled. Pour ingredients into Pacojet beaker; freeze for 24 hours. Just before serving, make ice cream following Pacojet's instructions. If using a traditional ice cream machine, chill mixture in an ice water bath. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the creamsicle assembly: Fill eight 4-inch ring molds (3-inches high) half full with condensed milk ice cream and top with passionfruit sorbet. Pack contents down, wrap in plastic wrap and freeze overnight.

For the coconut fritters: In a bowl, combine cream cheese, coconut paste, rum, vanilla bean seeds and salt and mix well. Using a 3 1/2-inch round cutter, cut circles from wonton wrappers. Place one teaspoon cream cheese mixture in center of each circle. Brush edges of circles with beaten eggs and fold each circle in half on itself. Press edges together to seal. Brush both sides of fritter with beaten eggs and toss in coconut flakes to coat, Freeze fritters until ready to fry.

For the coconut water agar: In a pot, mix all ingredients together and bring to a boil, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Pour into a hotel pan and chill to set. Cut into 1/2-inch squares.

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For the coconut soup: In a pot, combine all ingredients and bring to a simmer. Take off heat and set aside to cool. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For the coconut croquant: Preheat oven to 275 degrees. In a saucepan over low heat, combine corn syrup and fondant and cook, stirring constantly, until a light caramel color. Stir in coconut flakes. Spoon eight 2-tablespoon portions of mixture onto a Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan and cover with another Silpat[R]. Bake in oven for about 10 minutes, until croquant spreads to about five inches wide. Remove top Silpat[R] and sprinkle Fleur de Sel and lime zest over croquant. Store in airtight container until ready to use.

To finish the coconut fritters: Preheat deep-fryer to 325 degrees. Deep-fry fritters for about two minutes, until the coconut coating is golden brown. Drain on paper towels.

To serve: In a shallow bowl, arrange creamsicle in center and place diced fruits around creamsicle. Add 1/2 cup coconut soup and three pieces coconut agar. Top each creamsicle with a piece of coconut croquant and two coconut fritters.

ingredients

For the passionfruit sorbet:*

For the condensed milk ice cream:*

For the coconut fritters:

For the coconut water agar:

For the coconut soup:

For the coconut croquant:

For the garnish:

*This is made using a Pacojet; a type of machine that makes ice creams and sorbets to order. For more information, go to www.pacojet.com.

**A liquid invert sugar used often in sorbets. Available through The Chef's Warehouse at www.chefswarehouse.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Chocolate Box and Rose Petals (Serves 6)

PICHET ONG

Cabernet Franc Ice Wine

Innskillin

Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada 2002

directions

For the rose ice cream: In a pot, reduce grenadine to a syrupy consistency. Add milk, condensed milk and cream and bring to a scald. In a bowl, whisk together yolks and salt. Temper yolk mixture by adding one-third of hot milk mixture to yolk mixture, while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolk mixture back into hot milk mixture and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, add rose petals and lemon juice and set in an ice water bath until chilled. Pour ingredients into a Pacojet beaker; freeze for 24 hours. Just before serving, make ice cream following Pacojet's instructions. If using a traditional ice cream machine, chill mixture in an ice water bath. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the rose sorbet: In a pot, combine all ingredients and bring to a scald. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. Pour ingredients into Pacojet beaker. Cover and freeze for 24 hours. Just before serving, make sorbet following Pacojet's instructions. If using a traditional ice cream machine, chill mixture in an ice water bath. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the chocolate box: In a stainless steel bowl, melt 6 1/4 ounces chocolate over a double boiler, making sure that bottom of bowl does not touch water. Stir chocolate continuously until internal temperature reaches 113 degrees, about three minutes. Remove bowl from water bath and place on a towel. Add remaining chocolate, stirring constantly, letting mixture cool to approximately 88 degrees. Mixture should be smooth and glossy. Place bowl back on pot of hot water and stir until chocolate is fluid again and thermometer reads approximately 100 degrees. Remove from heat. Spoon two tablespoons of tempered chocolate into clean box, moving it around to coat completely. Turn box upside down and tap lightly on the bowl to remove excess chocolate. Set aside on cool surface and allow chocolate to harden, about two hours. If chocolate is properly tempered, chocolate box should pop right out of mold.

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For the mint pistachio emulsion: Heat oil in a saute pan over low heat. Add pistachios and lemongrass and saute until mixture is aromatic and pistachios are toasted, about five minutes. Remove from heat. Add goat's milk, sugar, salt, condensed milk, lime zest and juice. Transfer to a blender and puree. Add mint leaves and pulse until mint is broken up. Chill completely before using.

For the rose petal chantilly: In a pot, combine cream, salt and rose petals and bring to a scald. Remove from heat and transfer to a chilled bowl. Refrigerate for at least two hours, then whip rose cream to soft peaks. Add condensed milk and rose water and continue to whip to medium peaks. Set aside in refrigerator.

For the chocolate rose cream: In a pot, bring cream, evaporated milk, dried rose petals and salt to a simmer. Set aside to cool for about three minutes. Warm mixture again and pour onto chopped chocolate. Stir until smooth and use immediately.

To serve: Place a chocolate box on a plate and spread about two tablespoons of chocolate rose cream into bottom of each box. Top with rose ice cream and top ice cream with rose petal chantilly. Arrange cookie crumbs on one side of plate and place rose sorbet on top. Garnish sorbet with Candiflor candies. Garnish plates with rose jelly and mint pistachio emulsion.

ingredients

For the rose ice cream:*

For the rose sorbet:*

For the chocolate box:

For the mint pistachio emulsion:

For the rose petal chantilly:

For the chocolate rose cream:

For the garnish:

*This is made using a Pacojet; a type of machine that makes ice creams and sorbets to order. For more information, go to www.pacojet.com.

**It is best to use organic rose petals that have not been sprayed with insecticide.

***A liquid invert sugar used often in sorbets. Available through The Chef's Warehouse at www.chefswarehouse.com.

****Available through Paris Gourmet at www.parisgourmet.com.

*****Available through Kalustyans at (212) 685-3451 or www.kalustyans.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Ovaltine[R] Kulfi and Banana Brulee with Spicy Caramelized Popcorn (Serves 8)

PICHET ONG

Late Harvest Zinfandel

Robert Sinskey

Napa, CA 2001

directions

For the kulfi base: In a pot, bring cream, milk, vanilla bean and salt to a simmer. Let simmer for about 25 minutes, stirring frequently, until cream is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Whisk in Ovaltine[R] powder and continue to whisk until mixture is thick and boils. Remove from heat and stir in chocolate until melted. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve and pour mixture onto eight 1 X 1 X 7-inch rectangular molds.

For the banana brulee: Sprinkle the cut side of each banana half with one tablespoon sugar; caramelize with a blow torch.

For the three milk chocolate sauce: In a pot, bring evaporated milk, condensed milk, vanilla bean, salt and cinnamon to a simmer, whisking constantly. Remove from heat and whisk in chocolate until melted. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and chill completely.

For the chocolate caramel sauce: In a pot, bring cream to a scald and set aside. In another pot, wet sugar and heat to a dark caramel. Carefully whisk in warm cream, then whisk in remaining ingredients, set aside and allow to cool to room temperature.

For the spiced caramel popcorn clusters: In a pot, combine sugar, corn syrup, water and lemon juice. Cook mixture to soft ball stage, 234 to 240 degrees. Add popcorn, reduce heat to low and cover. Let sugar cook over low heat until it is a medium caramel, or the lapse between each kernel popping is more than three seconds. Remove from heat and stir in butter and salt. Add mukwa, fried mung dal and poppyseeds and stir to coat with caramel. Carefully pour mixture onto a cool surface and, working with gloves, try to separate popcorn into small clusters. Set aside to cool.

For the malt chantilly: In a pot, bring cream to a scald. Whisk in malt and bring mixture to a boil. Remove from heat and refrigerate in a bowl for at least two hours. Whip chilled malted cream to medium peaks.

To serve: Unmold kulfi and place on a plate. Spoon two tablespoons malt chantilly over the kulfi. Plate banana brulee on other side of plate. Garnish with spiced caramel popcorn clusters and drizzle with three milk chocolate sauce and chocolate caramel sauce.

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ingredients

For the kulfi base:

For the banana brulee:

For the three milk chocolate sauce:

For the chocolate caramel sauce:

For the spiced caramel popcorn clusters:

For the malt chantilly:

*Mukwa is a colorful mixture of candied spices, including fennel and ajwain. It is usually served as a digestive after a spicy meal in an Indian restaurant. Available at Foods of India, NYC (212) 683-4419.

**Fried yellow mung beans. Available at Indian and health food markets.

RELATED ARTICLE: Smoked Duck Breast, Mango Chutney Sorbet and Masala-Jaggery Vinaigrette (Serves 4)

STANLEY WONG

Syrah, Purisima Mountain Vineyard

Tensley

Santa Barbara, CA 2003

directions

For the smoked duck breast: In a spice grinder, combine one-quarter of the total volume of spices and pulverize to a fine powder. Set aside as masala powder for vinaigrette. Season duck breasts with salt and pepper to taste. In a saute pan over high heat, heat oil. Add duck breasts and sear, skin side down, until medium rare, about one minute on each side. In a pan, heat wood chips until smoking and add remaining spices. When smoking, place duck breast on rack above pan and smoke, covered, for two to three minutes. Remove duck and attach a string into duck breasts by inserting a knife through breast. Hang in refrigerator, uncovered, for at least one week. Slice lengthwise into thin slices.

For the mango chutney sorbet: In a saute pan over low heat, heat oil. Add shallot and saute until translucent, about three minutes. Add all remaining ingredients except lime juice and cook over low heat for one minute. Deglaze with lime juice and continue to cook until all ingredients are soft. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Pass through a fine-mesh sieve and pour into a Pacojet beaker; freeze for 24 hours. Just before serving, make sorbet following Pacojet's instructions. If using a traditional ice cream machine, chill mixture in an ice water bath. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the masala-jaggery vinaigrette: In a bowl, whisk together all ingredients and season to taste with salt.

For the cauliflower garnish: Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Shave cauliflower paper-thin using a mandoline. Place cauliflower on a parchment-lined sheet pan and cook one hour, until dehydrated.

To serve: Arrange duck breast and sorbet on a platter. Drizzle with mango-jaggery vinaigrette and mustard oil and top with amaranth, shingiku sprouts, fried capers and cauliflower.

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ingredients

For the smoked duck breast:

For the mango chutney sorbet:*

For the masala-jaggery vinaigrette:

For the garnish:

*This is made using a Pacojet; a type of machine that makes ice creams and sorbets to order. For more information, go to www.pacojet.com.

**Natural sweetener made by the concentration of sugarcane juice. Available in Asian markets.

RELATED ARTICLE: Pickled Foie Gras with Lychee-Chili Snow (Serves 4)

STANLEY WONG

Burg

Marcel Deiss

Alsace, France 2000

directions

For the pickled foie gras: In a pot, combine all ingredients except foie gras and bring to a boil. Cook for one minute, then remove from heat. Let cool and pour liquid over foie gras. Marinate, pressed under weights for 48 hours. Remove and refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to serve.

For the lychee-chili snow: Place lychees and chili in blender and puree until smooth. In a bowl, combine gelatin and lychee puree; heat over a double boiler until gelatin is dissolved. Pour ingredients into Pacojet beaker. Cover and freeze for 24 hours. Just before serving, make lychee snow following Pacojet's instructions. If using a traditional ice cream machine, chill mixture in an ice water bath. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the spice powder: Grind all spices except Fleur de Sel together and sift. Mix in Fleur de Sel.

To serve: Drizzle pomegranate molasses across plate in parallel lines. Sprinkle spice powder perpendicular to molasses on one side of plate. Slice foie gras lengthwise. On each plate, lay out alternating layers of foie gras and pumpernickel, using five slices of each per plate. Cut lychees in half and fill three lychee halves with lychee-chili snow. Place next to foie gras. With a fork, twirl shaved fennel with fennel fronds and place alongside foie gras and pumpernickel. Sprinkle Fleur de Sel on plate.

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ingredients

For the pickled foie gras:

For the lychee-chili snow:*

For the spice powder:

To serve:

*This is made using a Pacojet; a type of machine that makes ice creams and sorbets to order. For more information, go to www.pacojet.com.

**Available through Kalustyans at (212) 685-3451 or www.kalustyans.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Razor Clam Ceviche with Carrot Turmeric Sorbet (Serves 4)

STANLEY WONG

Sauvignon Blanc

Steinmuhle

Kollwentz, Austria 2003

directions

For the carrot turmeric sorbet: In a pot, combine orange and carrot juices. Add carrots, bring to a simmer and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients and cook for approximately two minutes. Set aside to cool. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and pour into a Pacojet beaker; freeze for 24 hours. Just before serving, make sorbet following Pacojet's instructions. If using a traditional ice cream machine, chill mixture in an ice water bath. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the peanut tuile: In a bowl, whisk together sugar and flour. Slowly whisk in juice and butter until well combined. Fold in peanuts and refrigerate for at least two hours. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place one teaspoon portions of mixture, three inches apart, on Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan. Bake for five minutes, or until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

For the razor clam ceviche: In a bowl, combine vinegar, syrup, lime juice, and dill. Marinate clams for 30 minutes, then add pears.

To serve: Arrange ceviche in center of plate. Place sorbet on top and garnish with peanut tuile, carrot top and turmeric oil.

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ingredients

For the carrot turmeric sorbet:*

For the peanut tuile:

For the razor clam ceviche:

For the garnish:

*This is made using a Pacojet; a type of machine that makes ice creams and sorbets to order. For more information, go to www.pacojet.com.

**Vinegar from the southwest of France, from a small Mediterranean seaside town called Banyuls-sur-Mer. It has aromas of walnut, spice, vanilla and licorice. Available through French Food Exports at (201) 867-2151.

***Available through www.germandeli.com or (877) 437-6269.

RELATED ARTICLE: Quick-Pickled Sardines, Torch Ginger Flower Sherbet and Mustard Oil Foam (Serves 4)

STANLEY WONG

Riesling, Semi Dry

Paumanok Vineyard

Long Island, NY 2003

directions

For the torch ginger flower sherbet: Place all ingredients in a blender. Puree until smooth, pass through a fine-mesh sieve and pour into a Pacojet beaker; freeze for 24 hours. Just before serving, make sherbet following Pacojet's instructions. If using a traditional ice cream machine, chill mixture in an ice water bath. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the pickled sardines: In a medium pot, heat oil. Add shallots and garlic; saute until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add remaining ingredients, except sardines, and simmer for five minutes. Cool at room temperature and marinate sardines 15 minutes. Remove sardines from pickling solution. Season with salt and pepper, brush with oil and char-grill.

For the mustard oil foam: In a small pot, combine all ingredients and heat just below boiling point. Froth sauce using hand-held immersion blender.

To serve: On a plate, arrange three sardines, three scoops of torch ginger flower sherbet and mustard oil foam. Garnish with mustard oil pickled vegetables and pickling liquid.

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ingredients

For the torch ginger flower sherbet:*

For the pickled sardines:

For the mustard oil foam:

To serve:

*This is made using a Pacojet; a type of machine that makes ice creams and sorbets to order. For more information, go to www.pacojet.com.

**Vietnamese mint has a remarkably similar fragrance and pungency and may be substituted.

RELATED ARTICLE: Malpeque Oysters with Singapore Sling Slush (Serves 4)

STANLEY WONG

directions

For the Singapore sling slush: Combine ingredients and freeze for 48 hours, stirring occasionally.

For the kaffir lime gelee: Bruise kaffir lime leaves by folding. In a medium pot, combine lime leaves, simple syrup, lime juice, salt and chili. Bring to a simmer and remove from heat. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and chill mixture. In a bowl, combine gelatin and simple syrup mixture; heat over a double boiler until gelatin is dissolved. Pour into a dish to about 1/4-inch deep. Refrigerate until set. Julienne and set aside, keeping cool. Combine with julienned pineapple.

To serve: Place oyster on top of juniper berries. Top each oyster with kaffir lime gelee and julienned kaffir lime leaves. Place crushed ice in a shot glass and pour singapore sling slush on top.

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ingredients

For the Singapore sling slush:

For the kaffir lime gelee:

To serve:

*Grown on the beds of Malpeque and Bedeque Bays in Prince Edward Island. Available through Burleigh Brothers Seafood Ltd. at (902) 831-2349.

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