Acrophobia

(Second of three parts)

Last month I related our visits to the islands of Krk and Losinj in Croatia. In this issue, I will continue with our travels in this country.

Osor

From what we had read in the Lonely Planet guide, we figured that the village of Osor would be worth a visit. We found the old, reconstructed community with its few inhabitants not particularly interesting. However, you may want to go there to watch the ships passing through the l1-meter-wide canal that separates the isles of Cres and Losinj. The drawbridge over the waterway opens only at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m.

If you plan to leave before the flotilla has passed, make sure you are at the proper side of the canal, since no road traffic can pass when the bridge is open.

Rab Island

Our next stopover was Rab, an island east of Losinj. It has warm summers and mild winters, since the Kamenjak mountain range protects most of the isle against the bora, the often-fierce, cold, northeast wind which blows mostly in winter and early spring.

To our astonishment, viewed from the coastal highway, Rab looked more like a barren hill than an island filled with subtropical vegetation. Even after driving off the ferry at Misnjak, large sand and gravel hills greeted us. Where was the Mediterranean scenery we were expecting?

We felt a lot better when, after a 10-minute drive on the main highway, olive groves and vineyards began to dot the landscape and we saw small, white houses with red-tile roofs shimmering in the sunlight.

Rab town

Medieval Rab town, the capital, lies on a narrow peninsula in the middle of the isle. Gradska Harbor is the attractive, rectangular port in its center. The municipality boasts many old churches and palaces and ancient facades.

Our hotel, the Padova (Banjoi bb, Rab, Otok Rab, 51280 Croatia; phone 051/72 45 44 or fax 051/72 44 18), at the far end of the haven, was good but noisy on the Saturday night we stayed there. Since the reception has an excellent fact sheet about the island, it is superfluous to visit the Turist Biro (tourist office).

Rab hikes

For a short stroll, take the gorgeous hiking trail that runs from the Padova southwest along the Adriatic and ends at the autocamp.

For another delightful 2-hour ramble, start at the bottom of the road descending from hotel Eva, situated in the Suha Punta resort on the southeastern part of the wooded Kalifront Peninsula. The easy trail, after crossing the woods, passes lovely beaches and coves, where we spotted German naturists soaking up the sun.

In the afternoon, when we drove through the mountains to Lopar, the farthest village on the western side of the island, the landscape changed front verdant green to barren rock, and along the highway, sheep were searching desperately for the occasional grass blade.

Lopar is famous for its sandy beaches, which are ideal for children since the water is very shallow.

Makarska

After returning to the mainland, we decided to stop the island visits because of the infrequent ferry connections during the spring. We made our way down to Makarska, situated on the so-called Croatian Riviera. Its balmy climate is due to Biokovo Mountain, which, rising precipitously behind the narrow coastal strip, protects the area from the harsh northern wind.

We stayed at the 4-star Meteor (Petra Kesimira IV bb, Makarska, 21300 Croatia; phone 021/61 53 44 or fax 021/61 14 19), where we splurged on an apartment. at $108 per night including half board. Interestingly, the Meteor added a liability insurance premium to the bill (about l2cent per person per night).

Makarska is a pleasant town with two lovely promenades separated by a wide, wooded promontory. In back of the hotel is the quiet promenade, which first runs along the beach and farther down continues as a trail in the woods. In the town center you will find the crowded boulevard, which is packed with shops.

Biokovo Mountain

If the weather is good, be sure to go up Biokovo Mountain, which is a national park. For people with acrophobia, the drive is somewhat scary, as you must navigate a mostly one-lane road which has steep dropoffs without guardrails.

Although the sky was blue when we left, it started to rain when we were halfway up. Worried about encountering cars on the way down, we turned around. Once out of the park, we turned left to explore the deserted, serpentine highway to Vrgorac, a village close to the Bosnian border.

Every once in a. while we encountered a spotless-looking rural community of smiling, waving People. "At other times the highway, passing high above the villages, afforded a beautiful vista of the Adriatic's misty offshore islands. Our perception of the extraordinary mountain scenery was punctuated by the sweet fragrance of the scotch broom blooming along the roadside.

It was cold and rainy when we arrived in mountainous Vrgorac. We jumped out of the car to warm up in an inviting espresso bar.

Figuring that the weather down below would be better, we returned to our vehicle and descended numerous hairpin curves toward Ploce. A bench at an idyllic rest stop along the Adriatic highway provided an ideal picnic spot.

After skipping many towns, we finally decided to explore. Turning left at Zaostrog, we ended up at the almost-deserted seafront, where a few locals were fixing up their boats and painting their houses to get ready for the short but busy summer season, lasting from June 15 to Aug. 31.

Refreshed once more, we followed the coastline up north. At each small township that we passed, a sign, "Centrum," invited us to visit. We looked at each other. "Would it be worthwhile?"

But, for now, it was quiet and peaceful as we strolled along the deep-blue waters of the calm Adriatic, passing house after house advertising apartmani and sobe (apartments and rooms for rent).

Vodice

From Makarska we continued north to Vodice -- 11 kilometers north of Sibenik -- to explore Krka National Park. The town has an attractive central square with cafes and restaurants plus a pretty seaside esplanade.

Since Vodice's best hotel, Punta, was full, we settled for the Imperial (Obala Ive Juricev -- Cota 6, 22211 Vodice, Croatia; phone 011/ 385 22 441362 or 440222 or 442101), where only the cheaper annex had a decent room available. ($48 for two with breakfast).

The Imperial's cavernous dining hail had over 800 seats Dinner was a set menu with several entree choices. Service, as in most other restaurants in Croatia, was fast, courteous, pleasant and furious.

Krka National Park

The park is famed for its waterfalls, formed by the Krka River, which originates in the Dinara Mountains and flows into the sea near Sibenik. During its run through the limestone it forms a narrow and deep canyon and flows over travertine barriers creating buks (waterfalls), the most majestic of which is the Stradinski Buk.

To reach the cascades, drive to either of the two park entrances: Skradin or Lozovac.

From Skradin, frequent boats transport you in a 25-minute, exciting ride to the Skradinski Buk.

When you start in Lozovac, you miss the free boat ride, but you can leave your vehicle at the car park, where a lovely 2-kilometer loop trail starts. Walking over the wooden planks covering the dirt path is an undiluted pleasure, as gushing rivers and miniature waterfalls bubble underneath your feet. If you can tear your eyes away from this charming spectacle, you will glimpse numerous larger cascades through the trees.

At the wooden bridge, the trail ends. Here, the eye-popping sight of multiple cataracts crashing down stops you in your tracks. You have reached the majestic Skradinski Buk.

Next month, I will continue with the narration of our trip in Croatia.

Dr. Wagenaar welcomes questions but may not be able to answer them individually. Write to him at 6556 50th Ave. NE, Seattle, WA 98115; e-mail pwagenaar@qwest.net.

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